geocalia

Itinerary · 2 nights

A weekend in the Ribeira Sacra, an hour from Lugo and Ourense.

Two boats along the Sil canyon, wineries in Doade, the Balcones de Madrid at dawn, Santa Cristina among chestnut trees and Monforte de Lemos, sleeping in a Parador or a pazo.

Leaves from Lugo · 1 hOurense · 45 minSantiago de Compostela · 1 h 45Pontevedra · 1 h 45A Coruña · 2 hLeón · 2 h 15Oviedo · 3 h 45

Part of Ribeira Sacra and the Sil canyonUnusual places to stay in Spain

Duration2 nights
From LugoOne hour to Monforte
Best timeMay, September and October
Budget€220–330 pp
Getting thereBy car

The plan

The plan, hour by hour

Designed to arrive in Monforte on Friday afternoon. Out of season, check which days each place opens in the monthly guide from the Monforte tourist office.

Friday

  1. 119:00Arrival in Monforte

    Leave the car at the Parador and walk down into the centre. Have dinner at the De Lemos restaurant, in the Parador itself.

Saturday

  1. 110:30Catamaran from A Abeleda

    Take the OU-0605 to the Ponte do Sil bridge. The 11:00 boat sails for 1 h 30 among terraced vineyards. Arrive half an hour early.

  2. 213:30Lunch at the Algueira winery

    O Castelo, in Doade, has a terrace among the vines: caldo with turnip greens and kid from the Caurel. Closed on Wednesdays.

  3. 316:00Tasting at Regina Viarum

    Three minutes away: a guided visit and a tasting of three to five wines, with a glass on the terrace above the canyon.

Sunday

  1. 19:30Balcones de Madrid

    Cross to the Ourense bank via Castro Caldelas to Parada de Sil. First thing, with the mist at the bottom of the canyon, the granite balconies are the best viewpoint in the Ribeira Sacra.

  2. 211:00Monastery of Santa Cristina

    Romanesque among centuries-old chestnut trees, a few minutes away. Tuesday to Sunday, €2, booking on the Turismo Ribeira Sacra website.

  3. 313:30Back through Monforte

    Lunch in Monforte and, if you make it, the Colegio de la Antigua at 16:45, with its El Greco paintings. Or a tasting at the Wine Centre before heading home.

Map

The stops, in order

What to do Eat 88 €Stay Services

Plan the trip

Ribeira Sacra and the Sil canyon, step by step

Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.

  1. 11. When to go
  2. 22. How you travel
  3. 33. Where to stay
  4. 44. Where to eat

When to go

When to go to Ribeira Sacra and the Sil canyon

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Best timeGood timeLow season

How you travel

The same break, your way

The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.

A canyon explored by car

The Ribeira Sacra has no useful public transport between jetties, wineries and viewpoints: it is done by car. The roads are narrow and winding, and crossing from one bank of the Sil to the other means finding a bridge. Plan fewer stops than the map suggests.

70–140 €per person per day, approximate
  • SleepParador de Monforte de Lemos…
  • Getting aroundFrom Monforte to the Ponte…
  • EatO Castelo, at the Algueira…
  • ServicesMonforte tourist office, every day

Sleep

  • Parador de Monforte de Lemos, at the top of the town
  • Casa Grande de Rosende, a pazo with garden in Sober
  • Rectoral de Anllo, a manor house with a garden near Os Chancís

Getting around

  • From Monforte to the Ponte do Sil and A Abeleda jetties, about 20 minutes
  • Doade and its wineries, ten minutes from the bridge
  • To Parada de Sil and the Balcones de Madrid, via Castro Caldelas: allow almost an hour

Eat

  • O Castelo, at the Algueira winery, open on Sunday at midday
  • Vértigo, at Regina Viarum, with a Michelin star
  • De Lemos Restaurant, at the Parador, every day

Services

  • Monforte tourist office, every day
  • Free parking at the jetties

How much does it cost?

People2
Nights2

Approximate, for 2 people and 2 nights: staying, eating and getting around there for each way of travelling. Getting there is not included.

Where to stay

Where to stay if you're driving

We show you what suits the way you travel.Change how you travel

The Parador, the monastery and the keep at the top of Monforte© ParadoresHotel

Parador de Monforte de Lemos

Monastery and palace · Neoclassical cloister · Seasonal pool · Free parking · Electric charger

Why we like it: Parador in the San Vicente do Pino monastery and the palace of the Counts of Lemos, at the top of Monforte: rooms around the cloister, outdoor pool and jacuzzi.

The pazo's courtyard, with the stone façade covered in ivy© Casa Grande de RosendeSmall hotel

Casa Grande de Rosende

16th-century pazo · 13 rooms · Gardens and vineyard · Animals admitted with notice

Dogs welcome

Why we like it: 1511 pazo in Rosende, Sober, with 13 rooms, a chapel with frescoes and over 10,000 m² of walled garden and vineyard; breakfast and dinner extra.

From €67 / night View details
The manor house façade with the garden and flowers in front© Rectoral de AnlloCountry house

Rectoral de Anllo

18th-century manor house · Original frescoes · Own garden · Library with fireplace · Home-cooked dinners

Why we like it: 18th-century manor house with Castinandi frescoes in Anllo, Sober, between the Cabe and the Sil: bathrooms with baths, library with fireplace, own garden and home-cooked dinner at €29.

From €80 / night View details
The monastery of Santo Estevo with its towers, among wooded hills above the Sil© ParadoresHotel

Parador de Santo Estevo

Benedictine monastery · Three cloisters · Spa in the former cellars · Outdoor jacuzzi · Free parking

Why we like it: Parador in the Benedictine monastery of Santo Estevo, above the Sil canyon: rooms in the former monks' cells, three cloisters and a spa in the cellars.

From €119 / night View details

Services for this trip

Monforte de Lemos Municipal Tourist OfficeOn calle Comercio, in the Wine Centre building · Open every day · Monthly guide to winery, boat and monastery hours
Parking for the A Abeleda and Ponte do Sil jettiesFree, in line beside the Monforte to Castro Caldelas road · More spaces beside the Doade jetty, across the bridge

Areas, for any way of travelling

AreaWho it's forAverage night
Monforte de LemosParador, museums, tourist office and services
Doade and SoberBodegas, landing stages and rural houses
Parada de SilViewpoints, Santa Cristina, Mao walkways and a bodega
Belesar, Chantada and PantónBoats on the Miño, a bodega and a monastery

Where to eat

Where to eat in Ribeira Sacra and the Sil canyon

Vértigo's dining room, with round tables and large windows over the Ribeira Sacra hills© Vértigo

Vértigo

Restaurant · Doade, Sober · €€€€

What to order: the Esencia menu if it is your first time; dishes without meat or fish, only on the menú carta

Open at midday; closed Tuesday and Wednesday
The restaurant's covered terrace, with wicker tables and chairs© Adega Algueira

O Castelo, restaurant of Adega Algueira

Restaurant · Doade, Sober · €€€€

What to order: the Galician caldo and the Caurel kid, or the €49 wine-tourism menu with four house wines

A Vía Romana bottle and two glasses of red on the tavern terrace, with the Miño vines in autumn behind© Vía Romana

Vía Romana Tavern

Bar · Belesar, Chantada

What to order: a house mencía with some tapas, before or after the winery visit

In summer, Thursday to Sunday

Tips

Worth knowing first

Local tip

If you only have one day, keep the Saturday: boat, lunch at Algueira and a tasting.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take from Lugo or Ourense?

A little under an hour to Monforte from both, and another 20 minutes to the canyon.

How much does the weekend cost?

With two nights at the Parador or a pazo, the boat, a tasting and meals, between €220 and €330 per person.

Can I bring a dog?

To the viewpoints and trails, on a lead. Not on the Diputación catamaran. Casa Grande de Rosende accepts animals with notice.

When is the best time?

In May and from September to October, with the grape harvest and the colour of the vines.