Torre de Sande

The ivy tower, opposite Atrio

Torre de Sande is the eating house of Toño Pérez and José Polo, the men behind Atrio, and is a few steps from their hotel, at Calle Condes 3, inside the monumental city. It occupies a 15th-century palace with an ivy-covered tower that is recognisable from the street. They conceive it as the opposite of the three-star: an informal place, for going with family or friends, where things are stewed and roasted over charcoal. It has tables outside, at the foot of the tower, for when the weather allows.

The menu: stews, charcoal and Iberian

The starters range from Iberian cured meats (loin at €29, acorn-fed ham at €33) and Extremaduran cheeses (€24) to classic dishes such as zorongollo, Russian salad or ham croquettes, at €18 each, with some outside touches: steamed dumplings, fried broccoli with kimchi, aubergine parmigiana.

The mains are from the grill and casserole: Iberian pluma, secreto and presa at €30, beef sirloin at €36, quail stuffed with foie, duck with coffee sauce, tripe and pig's snout (€26), snails with chorizo sauce (€21) or a rice with squid and lean pork (€33). In fish, hake with beurre blanc (€29), oysters and scallops by the piece. The desserts, at €11.50, include Santa Fe piononos, cheesecake, apple tarte tatin and the house flan. Bread is charged separately, at €2.50 per person.

Tasting menu and charity dish

There is a tasting menu at €57 per person, for the whole table, with croquettes, Russian salad, tempura prawns, the hake, Iberian presa with mushrooms and chocolate cake. It is the simplest way to try the house without calculating. One of the dishes on the menu, squid with chickpeas and spinach (€29), donates part of its price to Action Against Hunger.

Wines, hours and bookings

The wine list is wide and has bottles from €25 (a sparkling wine) and wine by the glass; there are also cocktails at €12. The kitchen is open from 13:30 to 15:30 and from 20:30 to 23:00. The Michelin Guide lists it as open every day, but the house does not publish closing days: confirm when booking on its website or on 927 164 994.

With a starter, main, dessert and bread, an à la carte meal comes to more than €60 per person before wine. For an afternoon plan in the same area, the Helga de Alvear museum is a few minutes' walk away.