geocalia
Day itinerary · 41.25° N · 1.90° E
A tiny village at the foot of the cliffs, the beach of the huts, a path above the sea and a rice dish to finish. Half an hour from Barcelona by train.
Part of Garraf Coves
The plan
Any part can be swapped for another without spoiling the day.
R2 Sud train to Garraf station
Village, beach of fishermen's huts and a stretch of the GR-92 · 1 h 30
El Chiringuito de Garraf · rice dishes facing les Casetes · booking required
Avinguda Llorach, 5, 08871 Garraf · +34 936 320 016
Train back; home around 17:15
Adds up the activities and meals in the plan at their published prices; travel and accommodation not included.
The route
Garraf is a small hamlet of Sitges tucked into a bay between cliffs of white limestone, with a marina, a sandy beach and a row of huts at the water's edge. It is the sea nearest to Barcelona that still feels far away. The train drops you on the beach, the village can be walked in half an hour and from the station a path sets off climbing above the sea. Outside summer you have the bay to yourself.
10:00 · Train. The Rodalies R2 Sud stops at Garraf station, in the village itself. It is about 35 minutes from Barcelona. Note: regional trains do not stop here, only the R2 Sud.
10:45 · The village and the beach. You step off the train and you are above Garraf beach, which has a blue flag and a lifeguard from May to October. Walk along the sand to the end of the huts, the old fishermen's shacks lined up facing the water, and carry on to the Club Nàutic Garraf harbour, five minutes away. From the breakwater you see the whole bay and the cliffs falling into the sea.
11:30 · A stretch of the GR-92. From the village, on the road to Barcelona, a marker on the mountain side shows the start of the GR-92, the Camí de les Costes. It is the path the park itself uses to walk from the station to La Pleta, the 1894 farmhouse that is now the Parc del Garraf office, about 3.5 km away. It climbs the slope through Mediterranean scrub, and at every bend the sea opens out further. For this plan it is enough to climb half an hour, look and come back; if you want to do the whole thing, La Pleta is open at weekends from 10:00 to 15:00, has water, toilets and a viewpoint, and the round trip takes up almost the whole morning.
13:00 · Swim or sun. Back on the beach, a while on the sand before lunch. Out of season there is hardly anyone.
14:00 · Lunch at El Chiringuito de Garraf. It is on Avinguda de Llorach, above Platja de les Casetes, a few steps from the station. It has been going since 1989 and its cooking revolves around rice dishes, fish and seafood, with terraces facing the water. It is open every day from 11:00 to midnight with no midday break, so there is no hurry. Book on its website, up to fifteen days ahead.
16:30 · Return. The station is two minutes from the beach.
Between Garraf and Port Ginesta the coast breaks into small coves with clear water. Cala Ginesta, next to the marina, is small and quiet, and is reached on foot from the road or through the harbour. Cala Morisca is among cliffs, has an almost wild feel and swimwear is optional; you walk down from the C-31 road. Both belong to Sitges and have a lifeguard in season. They are for a swim, not a long walk.
In this corner you come to eat rice with a view. At the Chiringuito, the rice caldereta with lobster, the soupy rice with Dublin Bay prawns or the seafood paella; if you prefer noodles, the angel-hair fideuà with king prawns. For a starter, the xatonada Garraf, its version of xató, the curly endive salad with salt cod typical of this coast, or some grilled sardines. Always book: on sunny Sundays the few tables facing the sea fill up, and in summer you must do it days ahead.
Garraf beach is sandy, in a sheltered bay, with a lifeguard in season: it works well with children. The path has loose stone; with small children, go up only as far as the first bend with views. Dogs cannot be on the sand during the bathing season; in Sitges, the dog beach is Vallcarca, a little further south.
Where to eat
Lunch is half the plan: book before you set off.
What to order: the caldereta rice with lobster or the seafood paella to share, and the xatonada Garraf to start.
What to order: The lobster rice caldereta or the seafood paella; for dessert, grandmother's cheesecake.
Map
With where to park at each one.
Getting there
When to go
Outside summer it is a different place: from October to June the beach is almost empty, the light is clean and the path does not scorch. In July and August the road jams and the train is full: if you go, go by train and early. On days of easterly wind, the sea comes in hard on the beach.
Tips
The village is small, the road narrow and on sunny Sundays there is nowhere to leave the car. The train drops you on the sand.
The Camí de les Costes has no shade. Before twelve and outside summer it is a pleasant walk.
The path has loose limestone. In flip-flops, stay on the beach.
There are few tables facing the sea and everyone wants the same ones.
Garraf in the rain is not much of a plan. Stay on the train to Sitges, a few minutes away, do the old town and the museums, and eat there.
Sundays in July and August. Trains full, beach full and the road at a standstill. Choose any other month.
Questions
About 35 minutes on the R2 Sud train, which stops at Garraf beach itself. By car, roughly the same without traffic.
There is no continuous path beside the sea: the coast is cliffs and the railway and road go through tunnels. The practical option is the train, which takes a few minutes.
A Modernista farmhouse from 1894 that is now the Parc del Garraf office. It is open at weekends from 10:00 to 15:00 and is reached by the GR-92 from Garraf, about 3.5 km uphill.
Yes, from May to October, with hours that change depending on the month. It is one of the Sitges beaches with a blue flag.
To the village and the path, yes, on a lead. On the sand, not in the bathing season: Sitges's dog beach is Vallcarca.
Yes, always. The tables facing the sea are few.
More plans like this
geocalia.com/en/spain/catalonia/garraf-coves/itineraries/garraf-coves-and-rice
Prices, opening hours and times are approximate: check them before you go. Each place has its own page on Geocalia.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/catalonia/garraf-coves/itineraries/garraf-coves-and-rice
