Calatrava la Nueva castle-convent

Calatrava la Nueva was the seat of the Order of Calatrava, which ruled Almagro and its surrounding lands for centuries: a castle-convent on top of a hill in the municipality of Aldea del Rey, with a church, a cloister and walled enclosures. You drive up along the Calatrava to Puertollano road and, from the car park, walk up the hillside. Allow about two hours for the visit and wear comfortable shoes.

History

The Order of Calatrava, the first military order on the peninsula, was born at Calatrava la Vieja. In 1217, after the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, the knights moved to this hill, the Cerro del Alacranejo, and made it their main seat until 1804, when they left it for good. Philip II spent Holy Week of 1560 here, and the cobbled path up the hill from that time still survives. From here, and from Almagro, the order governed the Campo de Calatrava; in the 16th century it built the Clavería palace in Aldea del Rey for the stewards who managed its estates.

The complex covers more than 46,000 square metres. Together with Salvatierra castle, on the hill opposite, it guarded the Calatrava pass, one of the crossings of the Sierra Morena.

What you see

You enter by the Puerta del Sol, in the first of three concentric walls, built on the rock with quartzite and lime mortar; the second is the most complete. Turespaña highlights the Puerta de Hierro, which leads into the fortress under ashlar vaults, and the volcanic stone of the area, found in the Puerta del Sol and in the cloister vaults.

The main piece is the convent church, from the 13th century: a basilica with three aisles, the central one taller, with the Puerta de la Estrella and a large Gothic rose window. Next to it is the Campo de los Mártires, the order's cemetery. Of the cloister only the ground-floor bases remain, with the refectory and kitchens nearby; the chapter house is not open to visitors. You also walk through the artisans' street, the stables, the guest quarters and the castle proper, with halls, towers, courtyards, staircases and a cistern.

Opening hours and tickets

It is run by Aldea del Rey Town Council, which publishes these hours:

• October to March: Wednesday to Saturday, 10:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 18:00; Sundays, 10:00 to 14:00.
• April to September: Wednesday to Saturday, 10:00 to 14:00 and 17:30 to 20:30; Sundays, 10:00 to 14:00.

It is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Entry stops half an hour before closing. Tickets are sold only at the ticket desk and cash only: €4 for general admission and €2.50 for reduced, for children aged 5 to 14, pensioners, unemployed people, groups of more than 20 and residents of the villages of the Campo de Calatrava, Almagro among them. Under-5s go in free. The guided visit is included: Saturdays at 11:30 and 16:15 and Sundays at 11:30 in winter; in summer, the Saturday afternoon tour moves to 17:45. Animals are not allowed in.

Getting there from Almagro

It is about 30 km, roughly half an hour by car. The address is the Calatrava to Puertollano road, km 7.2, in Aldea del Rey. From the car park you walk up the hillside, which is steep; in summer, go early. For questions, call 926 092 957 or 653 278 788.

It is the excursion that completes the guided tour of historic Almagro: in Almagro you see the palace of the Grand Masters, now the National Museum of the Performing Arts, and the Parador, in a former convent.