European bison, a mountain bell gable and roast lamb in Aguilar.

A Sunday with animals to start and Romanesque to follow. First thing, the European bison of San Cebrián de Mudá, semi-free in a 20-hectare oak wood. Then the collegiate church of San Salvador de Cantamuda, with one of the biggest bell gables in Romanesque architecture, standing out against the mountain. Roast lamb in Aguilar and, in the afternoon, the cloister and the models at the monastery of Santa María la Real. It works all year, in winter too, because the reserve opens at weekends.

The day, hour by hour

8:30 · Set off. From Palencia or Santander, on the A-67 to Aguilar; from Burgos, on the N-627. In Aguilar carry on towards Cervera and, in about 20 minutes, you reach San Cebrián de Mudá.

10:00 · The bison. The visit is always guided and lasts about two hours. It starts at the interpretation centre and continues for 2 km to the reserve, on foot; there is also a bike, electric bike, off-road vehicle and horse-drawn cart, at other prices. On foot it costs €10.50, €5 for children aged 3 to 7. In winter the last visit leaves at 12:30, so go to the first and book on its website. Bring a coat and country footwear: it is not a zoo, and the animals are looked for from three observation points.

12:40 · San Salvador de Cantamuda. Continue towards La Pernía, a little over half an hour. The collegiate church stands apart from the village, among meadows: walk round it to see the apses and corbels. On Sundays it opens from 11:00 to 14:00; €2.

14:00 · Lunch in Aguilar. Go back to Aguilar, about 45 minutes, and eat at Valentín, on Avenida de Ronda: more than sixty years of roast lamb. The website does not publish the dining room's hours, so book by phone. It has a car park.

16:30 · Santa María la Real. On the way out of Aguilar towards Cervera, the monastery holds a Romanesque cloister and the ROM, with models of the churches of the area, including the one you saw in the morning. At weekends it opens in the afternoon from 16:00. Self-guided visit, €4.50; guided visit of 50 minutes, €7.50. In winter the guided visit is booked on 979 12 30 53.

17:45 · Head home. On the A-67 or the N-627, in a little over an hour.

With children

It is a good Sunday for them: the bison come first, when they are fresh, and the ROM models help them understand the churches. If they are small, the off-road vehicle or the cart saves the 4 km there and back on foot; a child who takes a seat in a vehicle pays.

With dogs

At the bison reserve, ask when booking. In the streets and outside the churches, on a lead; dogs are not allowed in the churches or the museum.