Driving the La Hermida Gorge

What it is

The N-621 is Liébana's natural gateway from the coast. It leaves Unquera, beside the Tina Mayor estuary, crosses a short stretch of Asturias through Panes and returns to Cantabria to follow the río Deva upstream between limestone walls. The Cantabrian Government's leaflet of driving routes describes the gorge as a ravine of about 20 kilometres cut by the Deva into the rock of the Picos de Europa, which in some stretches reaches up to 600 metres deep. It is the only direct road from the coast to Potes, and almost everything worth seeing is at the roadside.

Before entering, Unquera is an almost obligatory stop: the same leaflet recommends it for trying its corbatas, the village's puff-pastry sweet, and in season, eels.

Stops along the way

Going up towards Potes, the first named stop is Urdón: from here sets off the walk from Urdón up to Tresviso, a mountain path that ends in the village of Tresviso, known for its picón cheese. A few kilometres further up is La Hermida, with its spa: the water rises from three springs at over 60 degrees. From the village the CA-282 leaves towards the Lamasón valley and, in the other direction, the road to Bejes, which shares with Tresviso the designation of origin for Picón Bejes-Tresviso cheese. If you have half an hour to spare, go up to the Santa Catalina viewpoint, between Cicera and Piñeres, from where you see the whole gorge and the village of Tresviso.

On leaving the canyon, Lebeña appears, on the banks of the Deva, with the Mozarabic church of Santa María, from the 10th century, one of the jewels of the region's architecture. Shortly afterwards, at Ojedo, the valley opens out and you reach Potes. If you have time left, from Ojedo the CA-184 leads in about 8 kilometres, through Frama and Cabezón de Liébana, to Piasca, where the monastery of Santa María is preserved, one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Cantabria.

How to do it

From Santander, take the A-8 to Unquera and the N-621 towards Panes and Potes; the Parador de Fuente Dé, at the end of the valley, gives 135 kilometres from Santander. The road is good but winding: allow about 45 minutes from Panes to Potes without stops, and a whole morning if you stop at Urdón, La Hermida and Lebeña. Stop only in the wide spots and car parks, never on the bends for a photo.

Worth knowing

In summer and on long weekends there is a lot of traffic and lorries. Drive with lights on and unhurried. If you want something more than looking from the car, in the same gorge you have the La Hermida via ferrata, the Navedo canyon and the La Hermida thermal cave. On arrival, finish with a walk round Potes, and if it is Monday, with its market.