Through the Sonsierra: Samaniego and Labastida

The road from Laguardia to Haro along the foot of the Sierra de Cantabria passes through Leza, Samaniego, Ábalos, San Vicente de la Sonsierra, already in La Rioja, and Labastida. They are stone villages, with big churches and wineries at the entrance, and the sierra behind like a wall.

Samaniego is about 12 km from Laguardia and Labastida about 25. In Labastida, climb to the Santo Cristo hermitage, above the village, for the views of the vineyards and of Haro, which is 5 km away. It is a good way to link Laguardia and Haro in the same day. Without a car, Alavabus line 10, from Logroño to Haro, stops at all these villages.

Samaniego

Samaniego is a small village, of about 330 residents, at the foot of the Sierra de Toloño, as this stretch of the Sierra de Cantabria is called here. Turismo Euskadi highlights three things. The church of the Asunción, from the 15th century, which was also born as a fortress and has a Baroque façade and a Churrigueresque high altarpiece. The Samaniego palace, a 17th-century manor house now converted into a hotel. And the hermitage of the Virgen del Valle, on the outskirts. All around are vineyards and numerous wineries, because the village is on the Rioja Alavesa wine route.

If you coincide with Holy Week, on Easter Sunday a figure, the Judas, is burned to ward off bad luck: it is one of its oldest traditions.

Labastida

Labastida is bigger, about 1,470 residents, between Mount Toloño, 1,271 metres high, to the north, and the Ebro, which forms the border with La Rioja, to the south. It has two historic areas. Above, the oldest part, with the church of the Santo Cristo, Romanesque and Gothic: the Basque Government dates it to the 12th century and says that excavations have uncovered remains of an earlier pre-Romanesque temple. Below, in Plaza de la Paz, opposite the Town Hall, the church of the Asunción, from the 16th century, with Renaissance and Baroque elements. Around the old town remain the arches of Toloño and Larrazuria, which were gates of the town.

Wine is the village's economy, and you can visit everything from ancient caves and calados to modern wineries. In mid-November, at the end of the harvest, Labastida celebrates its thanksgiving festivities, with music and street life.

The tourist office is in Plaza de la Paz (945 331 015). In winter it opens Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 13:30 and from 16:30 to 19:00, and at weekends from 10:00 to 14:00; in summer, Tuesday to Friday from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 17:00 to 20:00. It organises guided visits to the old town, the two churches and the village's wineries, as well as walking routes and tastings.

How to organise the day

By car, leave Laguardia westwards along the Sonsierra road, stop at Samaniego, continue to Labastida and finish at Haro: without stops it takes about half an hour. It is best to book a guided visit in Labastida beforehand, because the churches are shown through the office. Without a car, Alavabus line 10 stops at all these villages; check the timetables under the Alavabus bus.

Back in Laguardia, close the day with a tasting at the El Fabulista winery or at Mayor de Migueloa. If you continue into La Rioja, Haro is 5 km from Labastida.