The Balearic Islands, Mallorca beyond the beach.

The Balearic Islands are four inhabited islands, Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera, and each calls for a different trip. For now we cover Mallorca, the largest, and its lesser-known side for those who think only of beaches: the Serra de Tramuntana, the mountain range that runs along the north-west coast from end to end, with Puig Major as the island's roof, stone villages hanging above the sea, terraces of olive and orange trees built in dry stone and paths that UNESCO recognised as a World Heritage cultural landscape in 2011.

Which part of Mallorca should you choose?

• Sóller and the valley of orange trees. Sóller is the easiest gateway to the mountains from Palma: the 1912 wooden train crosses the range in an hour, the tram runs down to the port and from the quay the boat leaves for Sa Calobra. For walking, the Biniaraix ravine and the Cap Gros lighthouse.
• Valldemossa and Deià. Between Palma and Sóller, along the coast road: the Valldemossa charterhouse and the village of Deià above its cove, two classics of the mountains that can be combined with Sóller in a single day.
• Pollença and Formentor. In the far north, Pollença has its calvary of 365 steps and the port on the bay, and the Formentor peninsula ends in a lighthouse above cliffs.

How do you get around Mallorca?

From Palma, the island is covered by car on dual carriageways and mountain roads: Sóller is a little over half an hour through the tunnel, Valldemossa less and Pollença an hour along the northern motorway. The mountain roads are narrow and full of bends, with cyclists and coaches in summer; always allow more time than the map says, and expect full car parks in the villages.

Without a car, the TIB, the Consell de Mallorca bus network, leaves from the Estació Intermodal in Palma, beneath the Parc de les Estacions. Line 204 reaches Sóller every half hour; the 203 goes via Valldemossa and Deià. The Sóller train is the most charming option, though more expensive, and stops for a few weeks in winter. For walking several days, the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, the GR 221, crosses the mountains from village to village with Consell refuges, such as Muleta, above Port de Sóller.

When to go

From April to June and in September and October: temperatures for walking, the sea already or still warm and fewer people. In spring the orange trees of Sóller and the almond trees of the plain bloom. July and August are beach months, with strong heat inland, busy roads and high prices; if you go, start early for the routes. From November to March Mallorca is mild and green, good for walking, but many coastal hotels close, boats run fewer sailings and the Sóller train stops for a few weeks: check the calendars before you go.

What do you eat?

Pa amb oli, brown bread with ramallet tomato, oil and cured meats; sobrasada and butifarrón; tumbet of vegetables and fish rice dishes in the ports. In Sóller, the red prawn caught off the bay and the valley's orange trees, which give juice and ice cream. For dessert or to take home, an ensaimada.

Sunday outings and getaways from Palma

For anyone living in Palma, the mountains are the nearest Sunday outing. The train to Sóller with lunch at the port, or the Biniaraix ravine early and rice by the sea, are day trips without a car. With one night, sleep in Sóller or at the Port and add the boat to Sa Calobra.