Cares Trail

What it is

The Cares Trail runs through the gorge of the River Cares, between Poncebos, in Asturias, and Caín, already in León, along a path cut into the rock to maintain the canal that carries water to the Camarmeña power station. About 11 km separate the two villages; out and back from Poncebos is 22.1 km with 831 m of cumulative ascent and as much descent. Turismo Asturias rates it very hard and estimates more than five hours. It runs between the central and western massifs of the Picos de Europa, with walls hundreds of metres high on both sides.

The difficulty is not in the gradient, which is concentrated at the start, but in the length and the exposure: the path is a metre and a half wide and there is almost never a railing.

The route step by step

1. Start at Poncebos: the path begins next to the Bulnes funicular car park and crosses a small bridge.
2. Initial climb: the first two kilometres gain height between limestone crags. It is the hard section, in the sun in the morning.
3. The gorge: after that the path runs almost flat above the river, cut into the rock, with the canal beside it for many stretches.
4. Tunnels and bridges: near the end there are tunnels with windows opening onto the gorge, walkways and the Bolín and Rebecos bridges.
5. Caín: you reach the village in León, at the bottom of the Valdeón valley. If you walk back, you retrace the same path.

The route is waymarked as PR-AS 229 and partly coincides with the GR-202, the Reconquest Route (Ruta de la Reconquista). Turismo Asturias offers the track as GPX and KML.

Going one way only

Doing it in one direction cuts the walk in half, but between Caín and Poncebos by road you have to go round the massif and the journey is very long. For that there are 4x4 transfer companies that pick you up at one end; Turismo Asturias links to their list on the route's page. Book it before you start walking and agree the pick-up time.

Getting there and parking

Poncebos is in the municipality of Cabrales, about 6 km from Arenas de Cabrales on the AS-264 road, which is narrow and winding. From Cangas de Onís allow about 40 minutes. The Poncebos car park, the funicular one, is small for the crowds it gets in summer: arrive before nine or you will have to leave the car on the verge, far from the start.

When to go

The route is open all year. Spring and autumn are the best times: mild temperatures and fewer people. In July and August the gorge fills up and the initial stretch is very sunny. In winter there can be ice in the shaded areas and the days are short for 22 km.

Water, shade and services

Don't count on reliable fountains along the way: bring at least two litres per person in summer. Shade depends on the time of day; the tunnels and some enclosed sections provide it, the initial climb doesn't. In Poncebos and in Caín there are bars and restaurants, and between the two there is nothing.

With children and a dog

The Principality of Asturias recommends that children be over 12. If you go with a smaller one, always hold their hand and keep them on the inside of the path. A reasonable alternative with children is to walk only the section of tunnels and bridges from Caín, which is flat.

Dogs must always be on a lead. There is livestock in the gorge: don't approach the flocks and, if mastiffs are guarding them, don't touch them or give them food.

If the weather changes

In heavy rain or wind, don't start the route: that is when most stones fall. If it catches you inside, don't shelter close to the wall below areas with loose stones, keep walking at a calm pace and turn back if visibility drops. The path is slippery when wet.