Covadonga Sanctuary: Santa Cueva and basilica

Eight kilometres from Cangas de Onís, the Royal Site of Covadonga brings together the Santa Cueva, hanging above the Mestas waterfall, where the Virgin is venerated and where, according to tradition, the kings Pelayo and Alfonso I rest; the collegiate church of San Fernando; and the neo-Romanesque pink-limestone basilica on the Cueto hill, facing Mount Auseva. Below the cave, the pool and the Siete Caños fountain, and beside the esplanade, the Covadonga museum, in the former Hotel Favila, and the Campanona.

The Santa Cueva

It is the first thing you find on arrival. The cave, in the foothills of Mount Auseva, holds the image of the Virgin of Covadonga, the Santina, and the remains of Pelayo, first king of the Asturian monarchy, and of his son-in-law Alfonso I. The monastic settlement is documented from the early 12th century. Below, in the rainy season or thaw, the jet of the River Mestas falls into the pool, where coins are thrown, and on its bank is the Siete Caños fountain: tradition says the young woman who drinks from it will marry within the year. To the right of the cave, the collegiate church of San Fernando, from the 16th century, is the oldest construction in the Royal Site.

The basilica and the esplanade

The basilica of Santa María la Mayor was built at the end of the 19th century to a design inspired by Roberto Frassinelli, "the German from Corao". Its pink colour, inside and out, and its site on top of a crag are striking. Alfonso XII fired the first blast of the crypt works in 1877. Inside, look at the paintings on either side of the altar, the choir stalls and the organ. Nearby are the museum, in the former Hotel Favila, and the Campanona, a bell of about 5,000 kilos cast in La Felguera, awarded a prize at the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1900 and donated to the sanctuary in the 1950s. At the foot of the cave and the basilica, the Parque del Príncipe has paths beside the River Covadonga.

Opening times and visit

The basilica and the Santa Cueva are open from 8:00 to 20:00 and are free. In summer there are no Masses in the Santa Cueva; service times are at santuariodecovadonga.es. Allow an hour and a half to see everything at an easy pace. At the entrance, in El Repelao, an obelisk marks the place where, according to some chroniclers, Pelayo was proclaimed king.

From here the road to the Lakes leaves, with the Mirador de la Reina about 8 km away; on restricted-access days you go up on the bus to the Lakes. For practical information on the sanctuary, see the entry for Covadonga Sanctuary information.