Úbeda and Baeza, the Renaissance among the olive trees.

Úbeda and Baeza are two small cities in the province of Jaén that in the 16th century filled with Renaissance palaces, churches and squares, and which UNESCO declared a joint World Heritage Site in 2003. They are nine kilometres apart, on top of a ridge ringed by olive groves to the horizon. Úbeda is bigger and more monumental, with the Sacra Capilla del Salvador and the Plaza Vázquez de Molina; Baeza is more intimate, with the cathedral at the top and the Plaza del Pópulo below. You can see them in a day, and with a night you enjoy them without rushing, by day and with the stone lit up.

How do I get there from Jaén, Granada or Córdoba?

By car, from Jaén it is about 45 minutes to Úbeda; Baeza is on the way. From Granada, around an hour and a half along the A-44 and the A-316; from Córdoba, a little over an hour and a half along the A-4 and the A-32. These are estimated times. Úbeda has a bus station with regular services from several Andalusian capitals, according to the tourist office, but it has no train: the nearest stations mean continuing by bus or taxi.

Where do I park?

The historic centres have narrow streets and pedestrian squares: leave the car in the parking areas in the centre or on the outskirts and walk. In Baeza, park below and walk up to the cathedral. The hotels in the old town, such as the Puerta de la Luna in Baeza or the Palacio de Úbeda, have parking or valet parking.

How much time do I need?

One day covers the essentials: Úbeda in the morning, with the Salvador and the Plaza Vázquez de Molina; lunch in Baeza and in the afternoon its cathedral and the walk from the Plaza del Pópulo to Santa María. With a night you add the Sinagoga del Agua, the full guided visit of Úbeda and an olive oil mill with an oil tasting.

When to go?

In spring and autumn, when walking is a pleasure. From November to January is the olive harvest: the countryside is full of people beating the trees and the mills are grinding. In July and August the midday heat is strong; set out early and leave the indoor visits for the middle hours. Watch the Sunday hours: the Salvador opens at 12:00, Baeza cathedral closes at 17:30 in winter and Úbeda tourist office at 15:00.

What can you see with a ticket?

The Sacra Capilla del Salvador costs €7 and is the essential visit in Úbeda. The Sinagoga del Agua, €6, only with a guide, a medieval synagogue with a ritual bath that opened in 2010. Baeza cathedral, €7 with an audioguide or €10 with a guide, with the climb up the tower included. The guided visit by Artificis, at €24.90, includes the Salvador and the synagogue, and runs every day.

Where to sleep and eat?

In Úbeda, the Hotel Palacio de Úbeda occupies the palace of the Counts of Guadiana, with five-star grand luxury, a spa and a pool in summer; for cooking and getting around on foot, the apartments of Cantina La Estación, in the old town. In Baeza, the Hotel Puerta de la Luna, a 16th-century mansion beside the cathedral, with a pool and parking. For eating, Baeza has two high-end tables: Vandelvira, with a Michelin star, in a 16th-century convent, open on Sunday lunchtime, and Acebuche, in the Puerta de la Luna. For something simple, the tapas at Bar Pacos or the bar at Cantina La Estación, in Úbeda, with andrajos and confit cod.