Priego and Zuheros: white streets in the morning and a prehistoric cave in the afternoon.

Priego and Zuheros are the two faces of the Subbética: a Baroque city of fountains and a white village beneath a castle, with a prehistoric cave in the sierra. This Sunday puts Priego in the morning, when the light enters the Barrio de la Villa, and the cave in the afternoon. Before setting off, book the visit: without a booking you cannot enter.

The day, hour by hour

10:00 · Barrio de la Villa and Adarve. From Córdoba or Jaén, about an hour. Park outside the old town and walk in through Plaza de Santa Ana. Follow calle Real to the little square of San Antonio and leave by the Bajondillo to the Adarve, the balcony over the countryside.

11:00 · La Asunción. Next to the quarter. Go in to see the Sagrario, Pedrajas's Baroque dome.

11:45 · Fuente del Rey. Walk down: three ponds, 139 spouts, Neptune and a lion with a serpent.

14:00 · Lunch in Zuheros. About 40 minutes on mountain roads. At the Zuhayra, Zuheros cheeses and oxtail.

16:00 · Cueva de los Murciélagos. Drive up 4 km to the Ecomuseum. An hour and a half of guided visit, 700 steps and the Organ Hall.

17:30 · Head home.

Where and what to eat

The Zuhayra restaurant, at the top of Zuheros, is the natural stop before the cave. If you prefer to eat in Priego, Huerta de las Palomas is five minutes away, with parking. Neither publishes its hours on its website: call beforehand.

With children and with a dog

With children, the cave is what they will remember: €6.50 for ages 6 to 12, but it is 700 steps and not for the very small. The Fuente del Rey and the Adarve are free and outdoors. With a dog, the streets of Priego and Zuheros are fine on a lead; for the cave, ask when you book.