The three Poqueira villages, on foot with Alpujarran cooking.

This is the classic Alpujarra Sunday, the one best understood on foot: you climb from Pampaneira to Bubión and Capileira along the bridle paths, go down to the river and return to the starting point for lunch. In the afternoon, unhurried, you look out over the ravine from Capileira. From Granada it is a little over an hour by car; from Málaga or Almería, about two.

The Day, Hour by Hour

8:45 · Departure. From Granada, the A-44 towards Motril, the Lanjarón exit and the Órgiva road; at Órgiva take the A-4132 towards Pampaneira. The last half hour is winding.

10:00 · Pampaneira. Leave the car in the municipal car park at the entrance and climb to Plaza de la Libertad, the church square, for a coffee. At the information point they give you the trail map.

10:30 · The three villages on foot. The PR-A 70 starts in the upper part of Pampaneira, on the old road to Bubión. It is circular, 9.4 km and about three and a half hours according to the regional government: you climb to Bubión, continue to Capileira, the highest, and go down the ravine to the river to return to Pampaneira. There are steps, loose stone and little shade. If you want it shorter, do only Pampaneira–Bubión and return the same way.

14:15 · Lunch at Casa Alfonso. At the Hostal Pampaneira, at the entrance to the village. The same family has run it for more than sixty years: Alpujarran cooking with vegetables from its garden, the Alpujarran plate, papas a lo pobre with eggs from its own hens, stews such as the gitanilla and grilled meats. There is a set menu of the day and a terrace on the promenade. Its website does not publish opening hours: call 958 76 30 02 to book.

16:30 · Capileira. Ten minutes by car. Park at the entrance and walk down the streets to the viewpoint, from where you see Bubión and Pampaneira down the ravine and the Veleta to the north. The church of Santa María de la Cabeza opens in the afternoon from 16:00 to 19:00, with a 17th-century Baroque altarpiece. The customs museum only opens in the morning.

18:00 · Return. To Granada, a little over an hour.

What to Bring

Mountain footwear, water, a hat and a warm layer: between Pampaneira and Capileira there is about 400 metres of ascent and the weather changes with the altitude. Poles for the descent to the river.

With Children and Dogs

With children used to walking, the whole route is manageable; if not, do the Pampaneira to Bubión stretch and then drive up to Capileira. With a dog, the trail and the streets are done on a lead.