What to do · Edinburgh
Dean Village and Stockbridge, a walk along the Water of Leith
Information
- Price
- Free
- Duration
- 1 h
- Season
- All year; Stockbridge market on Sundays
- Who it's for
- All ages; with a pushchair, best along the Well Court bank
- With a dog
- On a lead; the path is shared with bicycles
A mill village in the middle of the city
Fifteen minutes' walk from the West End of Princes Street, the ground drops suddenly into a valley and another Edinburgh appears: stone houses right by the water, an old bridge, courtyards and the sound of the river. This is Dean Village, a mill village that for centuries was the city's industrial quarter. At one point it had eight grain mills, a brewery and a distillery, all driven by the water of the Water of Leith. The mills belonged to the bakers' guild and Edinburgh's flour came from here, until the steam mills of Leith arrived in the 19th century.
Today it's a quiet residential neighbourhood. The building that appears in every photo is Well Court, in red brick with a clock tower: it was commissioned in 1884 by J. R. Finlay, owner of The Scotsman newspaper, as housing for workers. Opposite, across the footbridge, are the Hawthorn Cottages, from 1895. Remember that people live here: keep your voice down and don't go into the courtyards.
Walk down from the city via Bell's Brae, the slope that leaves Queensferry Street just before the Dean Bridge. That tall stone bridge you see over the valley is the work of Thomas Telford, from 1830.
From Dean Village to Stockbridge along the river
From the village's old bridge, follow the Water of Leith Walkway downstream, heading east. It's a dirt and tarmac path among trees, below street level: you pass under Telford's bridge and in a quarter of an hour reach St Bernard's Well, a classical temple with a statue of Hygieia, from 1788, built over a spring. The inside only opens on Sundays in August and on the September open days; from outside it can always be seen.
A few more minutes and you come out in Stockbridge, a neighbourhood of small shops, cafés and Georgian houses. From the village to Stockbridge it's just over a kilometre: allow an hour with stops and photos. If you still feel like it, the path continues downstream to Leith, about three and a half miles more.
The Sunday market
On Sundays from 10:00 to 16:00, all year round, the Stockbridge Market is held on Saunders Street, next to the bridge over the river. There are hot food stalls to eat standing up, bread, cheese, meat, fish, fruit, sweets and crafts. It has been running since 2011 and is outdoors, so don't count on finding cover. If you do the walk on a Sunday, leave it for the end and have lunch there.
Tips
- Do it on a Sunday morning Dean Village first thing, with the neighbourhood still asleep, and the Stockbridge market for lunch.
- Choose the Well Court bank It's the easiest with a pushchair or bike, according to the Water of Leith Conservation Trust itself.
- Shoes for mud The river path has dirt stretches that get muddy after rain and slippery leaves in autumn.
- Head back via the top From Stockbridge you walk up to the centre in about fifteen minutes through the streets of the New Town, without retracing the river.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take from Dean Village to Stockbridge?
Just over a kilometre along the Water of Leith. About twenty minutes without stopping and an hour with stops.
How do you get to Dean Village from the centre?
On foot, in about fifteen minutes from the West End of Princes Street: follow Queensferry Street and go down Bell's Brae before the Dean Bridge.
What day is the Stockbridge market?
Sundays, from 10:00 to 16:00, all year round, on Saunders Street.
Can you do it with a pushchair?
Yes, along the Well Court bank, which the Trust recommends for pushchairs and bikes. The path is only partly wheelchair accessible, and Bell's Brae is a steep slope.
Can you carry on to Leith?
Yes. The Water of Leith path continues about three and a half miles to Leith, around an hour and twenty minutes.
As a familyWith a dog
