A Sunday in the Gerês: the Roman road among oaks and the reservoir from above.

The Gerês is the southern part of Portugal's only national park, and from Ourense you enter by the Portela do Homem border crossing, at Lobios. On the other side of the line begins the Mata da Albergaria, an ancient wood of oak, holly and strawberry tree, and the Geira crosses it, the Roman road that linked Braga with Astorga and still keeps milestones among the trees. This plan walks down it in the morning, eats in Campo do Gerês and in the afternoon climbs to the viewpoints over the Caniçada reservoir.

The day, hour by hour

8:30 · Leave. From Ourense, via Celanova, Bande and Lobios to the Portela do Homem, an hour and a half. When you cross, set the clock back: in Portugal it is an hour earlier. The rest of the plan's times are in Portuguese time.

9:00 · The Geira and the Mata da Albergaria. Leave the car at the Portela do Homem and walk down the road, between milestones, to the Ponte Feia, over a waterfall on the Homem river. Come back by the São Miguel waterfall. It is two and a half unhurried hours, on a wide path with almost no ascent. There are no facilities in the forest: bring water.

12:30 · Lunch at the Cerdeira Restaurant. It is inside Parque Cerdeira, in Campo do Gerês, about twenty minutes by car. It serves lunch from 12:00 to 15:00. Book by phone, especially at weekends in good weather.

15:00 · Pedra Bela and Junceda viewpoints. Pass through the spa village of Gerês and climb the track towards the Arado waterfall. From Pedra Bela you see the Caniçada reservoir and the Gerês and Cávado rivers winding through the sierra; Junceda, at 915 metres, looks out right above the village.

16:15 · Arado waterfall. The most photographed waterfall in the Gerês is seen whole from the viewpoint next to the road. To reach the pools below, only with footwear that grips: wet granite is very slippery.

17:00 · Return. Via the Portela do Homem you are in Ourense around 19:30, Spanish time.

What to order at Cerdeira

The Pedaço do Gerês, the house version of bife à minhota, or cod with broa, the Minho cornbread. If you are a group, order the kid or the bersame, a local stew, beforehand. It is mountain cooking with generous portions and Portuguese prices.

With children, with teenagers and with rain

The Geira suits children from about five: it is wide, without steep slopes and with waterfalls in view. With small children or on a rainy day, swap the walk for the Rio Caldo boat, which sails all year on the Caniçada from the Rio Caldo Nautical Centre; ask about departures by phone. With teenagers, hire electric bikes at Parque Cerdeira and do the Albergaria circuit. Dogs can go along the Geira and the viewpoints, always on a lead.