Setúbal's centre and the Mercado do Livramento

The Mercado do Livramento, at Avenida Luísa Todi, 163, is Setúbal's municipal market and the best showcase for fish from the Sado and the coast: red mullet, cuttlefish, sardines, clams. Go in the morning, when it is alive, and look at the tile panels on the walls.

From the market, Avenida Luísa Todi runs along the city's waterfront by the river, with eateries serving fried cuttlefish, the dish of Setúbal. Behind lies the old town, with narrow streets and small squares.