What to do · Óbidos
Livraria de Santiago, a bookshop inside a church
Information
- Price
- Free
- Duration
- 20 min
- Season
- All year
- Who it's for
- Everyone
What it is
The Livraria de Santiago occupies the former church of Santiago (São Tiago), at the top of Rua Direita, at the foot of Óbidos castle. The church was built in the 12th century and rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. Today, where the pews were there are wooden shelves up to the ceiling full of books, and the high altar and altarpiece are still in place, surrounded by volumes. It is the best-known image of the project that turned Óbidos into a "literary town" and earned it a place in UNESCO's Creative Cities Network for Literature in 2015.
What you will find
It is a real bookshop, not a museum: you can browse, sit and buy. As well as selling books, the church hosts presentations, debates, screenings and exhibitions.
Santiago is not the only bookshop in an unexpected place. In the town there are others scattered through old buildings, such as the one at the organic market, which mixes organic fruit and vegetables with books, in the former municipal canteen. They are worth hunting for around the town.
Hours and price
Entry is free and there is no need to book. It opens daily from 10:00; closing time varies by day and season, from 19:00 onwards. If you are going late, check beforehand at the Óbidos tourist point, beside the Porta da Vila.
How long to allow
Twenty minutes if you just want to see it; longer if you start looking at books. It fits into a walk round the town: it is on the way between the Porta da Vila and the castle, next to the access to the walls.
Getting there
Leave the car in the car parks outside the walls, beside the Porta da Vila; you reach Óbidos by the A8, exit 15. Walk in and go all the way up Rua Direita to the end, towards the castle: the church of Santiago stands beside the castle gate. It is ten minutes on foot along a cobbled street with a gentle slope.
When to go
All year round. First thing in the morning or in the late afternoon there are fewer people on Rua Direita and you can look in peace. In July and August, and during the town's big events, such as the FOLIO literary festival in autumn or Óbidos Vila Natal in December, it fills up.
With children and accessibility
Children are surprised to see a church full of books. Inside, the aisles between the shelves are narrow and moving with a pushchair is hard when it is busy.
When you come out, have a ginja in a chocolate cup on Rua Direita.
Tips
- Look up The shelves reach the ceiling of the nave and the altarpiece is still in place: that is the photo.
- Look for the other bookshops Óbidos has more bookshops in old buildings; ask at the tourist office.
- Go outside peak hours First thing, Rua Direita is quiet and the church almost empty.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to pay to enter the Livraria de Santiago?
No. Entry is free; you only pay if you buy a book.
What are the opening hours?
Open daily from 10:00, generally until 19:00. Some days it closes later; confirm at the tourist office.
Where is it?
At the end of Rua Direita, beside the entrance to Óbidos castle, in the former church of Santiago.
