Dwejra, the west coast where the Azure Window stood.

Dwejra is the western corner of Gozo, in the parish of San Lawrenz: an amphitheatre of limestone dropping into the sea, with three or four things to see a few minutes' walk from each other. Go in the late afternoon: the sun sets straight ahead.

What to see

• The Inland Sea. A lagoon of seawater enclosed between rocks and joined to the open sea by a natural tunnel about a hundred metres long under the cliff. On its shore are fishermen's huts and a small pebble beach. When the sea is calm, the fishermen take visitors out by boat through the tunnel to the open sea and the cliffs; ask the price at the quay.
• Fungus Rock. A solid islet at the entrance to the bay. The knights of the Order guarded it because a plant grew on it to which they attributed medicinal properties.
• Dwejra Tower, from 1652, a lookout tower of the Order above the bay. It is open when its flag is flying.
• The Blue Hole, a natural well of water in the rock, open to the sea through an arch underwater, one of the best-known dive sites in the Mediterranean. From above you see its round shape; below begins the dive.
• Where the Azure Window was. Malta's most photographed rock arch collapsed in 2017. Nothing remains above the water; below it, its blocks form a new landscape that divers explore.

Diving or swimming

The Blue Hole is a shore dive: you enter over the rock into a sheltered pool and descend through a great arch that begins at about 6 metres and reaches 15, with a cave at the bottom, and deeper down passages and a chimney for experienced divers. To do it, book a guided dive at a centre such as Atlantis, or, if it is your first time, start with a try dive.

For swimming, the pebble beach of the Inland Sea is peaceful when the sea is calm. On the Blue Hole rocks you can snorkel, but only when the sea is flat: with a west swell, waves sweep the platforms.

How to get there

By car, from Victoria via San Lawrenz; the road ends beside the Inland Sea. Wear sturdy shoes: the ground is uneven limestone. There is no shade anywhere on the site.

The Dothraki wedding

Visit Gozo recalls that Dwejra Bay was a setting for Game of Thrones: the wedding of Daenerys Targaryen and Khal Drogo was filmed here, with the arch of the Azure Window in the background. The arch collapsed in 2017, so the scene can no longer be recognised in full; what remains is the rocky coast that surrounded it and Dwejra Tower above the cliffs.