When to go
When to go to Kyoto
Late March and April, with the cherry blossom, and November, with the red leaves, are the most beautiful weeks and the busiest. From mid-June to July it rains a lot, and August is very hot and humid. Winter is cold and quiet, with the temples almost to yourself.
Tips
Worth knowing first
- 1Get up early for the big three
Fushimi Inari, the bamboo grove and Kiyomizu-dera fill up by mid-morning. First thing, you will find them almost empty.
- 2Avoid getting off at Kyoto station if you can
The city's tourist office recommends using nearby stations such as Nijo, Enmachi, Tofukuji or Yamashina to avoid the crowds.
- 3Respect the geiko and maiko
Do not stop them, follow them or photograph them without permission. To see them dance, ask at your hotel about public dance performances.
- 4Carry a bag for your rubbish
There are few bins in the street, and the city asks visitors to take their rubbish with them.
- 5Use the crowd forecast
Kyoto's tourism website publishes a forecast of visitor numbers by area and suggests quieter alternatives.
Seeing Kyoto in a day from Tokyo or Osaka on a temple route from one end of the city to the other. You will spend more time on buses than in the gardens. If you only have one day, stay in Higashiyama and Gion.
What is Kyoto like?
Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital for over a thousand years, and it shows: there are temples and shrines in every district, moss and sand gardens, and streets of wooden houses with lanterns at the door. But it is also a big, modern city, with grid-pattern avenues, traffic and an enormous railway station. The old parts are spread around the edges, at the foot of the mountains that surround it on three sides.
That is why Kyoto is best seen by area: each day, one district and what lies around it. Four nights is enough for the great temples without rushing; with three you have to choose.
What to see, district by district
Higashiyama and Gion, to the east. This is the Kyoto of the postcards. Kiyomizu-dera, a temple more than 1,250 years old on the slope of Mount Otowa, with its great wooden terrace over the forest. Heading down from it you come to the cobbled lanes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, with wooden houses and tea shops. Further north is Gion, the teahouse district, where the geiko and maiko live and work. Many streets in Gion are private and in some photography is forbidden: respect the signs.
Fushimi Inari, to the south. The main shrine of Inari, the deity of rice, founded in 711. From the main hall, thousands of red torii gates, donated by companies and families, form tunnels that climb Mount Inari, 233 metres high. Going up to the summit and back is a long walk with lots of steps; most visitors stay on the first stretches, so the higher you climb, the fewer people you meet.
Arashiyama, to the west. A district at the foot of the mountains, beside the Katsura river. Tenryu-ji, a Zen temple and World Heritage Site with a pond garden facing the mountain, and next to it the bamboo grove, a path between towering canes. Do not carve anything into the bamboo: fines go up to 300,000 yen.
The north and north-east. Kinkaku-ji, the golden pavilion over its pond, open from 9:00 to 17:00. And at the other end, at the foot of the eastern mountains, Ginkaku-ji, the silver pavilion, more restrained, with a sand and moss garden. From Ginkaku-ji the Philosopher's Path runs south, a walk beside a canal lined with cherry trees that leads towards Nanzen-ji.
The centre. Between Shijo and Sanjo, the Nishiki market, a covered street of food stalls, and Pontocho, a narrow alley of restaurants beside the Kamo river.
How to plan four days
- Day 1, Higashiyama and Gion. Kiyomizu-dera first thing, down through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, and the afternoon in Gion.
- Day 2, Fushimi Inari and the centre. The shrine early, before eight, and in the afternoon Nishiki and Pontocho.
- Day 3, Arashiyama. The bamboo grove at dawn, Tenryu-ji when it opens and the river in the afternoon.
- Day 4, north and east. Kinkaku-ji in the morning and, in the afternoon, Ginkaku-ji and the Philosopher's Path.
With a fifth day, Nara, with its temples and free-roaming deer, or Osaka, about 30 minutes away by train.
How do you get there?
From Spain, Iberia flies direct from Madrid to Tokyo-Narita; from Tokyo, the Nozomi bullet train reaches Kyoto in about 130 minutes. If you fly with a stopover to Osaka-Kansai, the Haruka train drops you at Kyoto station in about 80 minutes, and the limousine bus in about 100. From Osaka it is about 30 minutes by train.
You need a passport; no visa is required for tourist stays of up to 90 days. The European Health Insurance Card is not valid in Japan: take medical insurance.
How do you get around?
The metro has few lines and does not reach every temple, so the bus does the rest. The one-day metro and bus pass covers all the municipal lines and most of those run by other companies, and gives discounts at some sights. For the temples, the express buses EX100 and EX101 stop at the main ones and go more directly. On ordinary buses you board by the middle door and get off by the front one.
The bike works very well in a flat, grid-pattern city, but park only where it is allowed: there are fines for leaving it anywhere. For your suitcase, the Hands Free Kyoto service carries it for you and lets you travel light.
Questions
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need in Kyoto?
Four nights for the big districts without rushing. With three, choose between Arashiyama and the north. With five, add Nara.
How do I get from Kansai airport to Kyoto?
On the Haruka train, about 80 minutes to Kyoto station, or by limousine bus, about 100 minutes.
How long does it take from Tokyo to Kyoto?
About 130 minutes on the Nozomi shinkansen and about 170 on the Hikari.
Is there an entrance fee at Fushimi Inari?
Not for walking round the shrine and the torii paths on Mount Inari. Most temples, such as Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkaku-ji or Tenryu-ji, charge admission.
Can you take photos in Gion?
On the main street, yes. In many parts of Gion, on some private streets and in parts of temples and shrines it is forbidden. Look for the signs.
When is the best time to go?
Late March and April for the cherry blossom, and November for the red leaves. Book your hotel months ahead for those dates.
Is it worth renting a bike?
Yes, for the centre and the flat districts. For Arashiyama or Fushimi Inari, better to take the train or bus, and always park in permitted areas.