
Osteria La Porta
What to order: pici all'aglione della Val d'Orcia on the terrace, and the cheek braised in Vino Nobile
geocalia
Day itinerary · 43.08° N · 11.68° E
Two and a half hours from Rome: the wheat track of the Elysian Fields in Gladiator, the Pienza square from The English Patient, pici in Monticchiello and the thermal pool from Nostalghia.
Part of Val d'OrciaFilm locations
The plan
Any part can be swapped for another without spoiling the day.
Along the A1 northwards and minor roads towards Pienza
From the Pieve di Corsignano towards Terrapille · free · no shade
Pici all'aglione on the terrace · booking · closed on Thursdays
Via del Piano, 1, 53026 Monticchiello, Pienza · +39 0578 755163
The water square of Nostalghia and the Parco dei Mulini · free
Via San Quirico towards the A1; in Rome around 19:30
The route
The Val d'Orcia has appeared in many films, and three locations fit into a day from Rome. In the morning you walk along the wheat track of the Elysian Fields in Gladiator, at the foot of Pienza, and climb to the square where the end-of-war party in The English Patient was filmed. You have lunch on a terrace over the valley in Monticchiello, and in the afternoon stop at Bagno Vignoni, the village whose square is a thermal-water pool, where Andrei Tarkovsky filmed Nostalghia. No entrance fees to pay.
7:30 · Leave Rome. North on the A1 and minor roads towards Pienza. It takes about two and a half hours.
10:00 · The Gladiator fields. Park in Pienza and walk down to the Pieve di Corsignano, the Romanesque church on the outskirts. From there starts the dirt track that runs towards the Terrapille farm stay between cereal fields: it is the one in the film. Walk as much of it as you like and come back the same way, without going into the fields. Back in the village, go up to Piazza Pio II, the cathedral square, where the end-of-war party in The English Patient was filmed.
13:00 · Lunch at Osteria La Porta. In Monticchiello, beside the medieval gate. Ask for the terrace when you book. Pici all'aglione, bread gnocchi with sage or beef cheek in Vino Nobile. Closed on Thursdays.
15:30 · Bagno Vignoni. On the way down to San Quirico, the SP146 passes the Poggio Manzuoli estate, Maximus's house in Gladiator: it is private and from the gate you can only see the cypresses. Carry on to Bagno Vignoni, whose square is a great sixteenth-century pool of thermal water. It is the setting of Nostalghia. You cannot swim in the square, but you can go down to the Parco dei Mulini, where the water falls down the hillside.
17:00 · Return. Via San Quirico towards the A1. In Rome around half past seven.
For anyone who has seen Gladiator and wants to stand on the spot, and for anyone coming to the Val d'Orcia for the landscape who likes to know where they are looking. There is little walking: you make the Pienza track as long as you like. With children it works if they can manage a morning in the sun; bring a hat and water.

Where to eat
Lunch is half the plan: book before you set off.

What to order: pici all'aglione della Val d'Orcia on the terrace, and the cheek braised in Vino Nobile

What to order: hand-made pici with piennolo tomato and pecorino, and the Cinta Senese shoulder with saba
Takeaway and markets
Map
With where to park at each one.
Getting there
When to go
All year except Thursday, when Osteria La Porta is closed. The wheat is green in spring and golden at the start of summer; after the harvest only bare earth remains and the landscape is no longer the one from the film.
Tips
The Pienza track has no shade and the first light is best for photos.
Terrapille and Poggio Manzuoli are private. Take the photo from the track and from the gate.
At La Porta, ask for it specifically.
Thursday, if you want to eat at La Porta: it is their closing day. Swap it for a pecorino picnic from the Caseificio Cugusi.
Questions
In the Val d'Orcia, at the foot of Pienza, on the track that runs from the Pieve di Corsignano to the Terrapille farm stay.
Nostalghia, by Andrei Tarkovsky, in the village's thermal-water square.
No. The track, the square in Pienza and Bagno Vignoni are free.
At the start of summer, before the harvest. In spring it is green.
More plans like this
geocalia.com/en/italy/tuscany/val-d-orcia/itineraries/gladiator-and-english-patient-from-rome
Prices, opening hours and times are approximate: check them before you go. Each place has its own page on Geocalia.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/italy/tuscany/val-d-orcia/itineraries/gladiator-and-english-patient-from-rome