Antico Caffè

A café from 1855 beneath the bastion

The Antico Caffè is on Piazza Costituzione, right at the foot of the flight of steps up to the Saint Remy bastion, where the quarters of Castello, Marina and Villanova meet. Its history begins in 1838, when Lazzaro Canepa, who had come from Lavagna, near Genoa, opened a small venue here. In 1855 it was renamed Caffè Genovese and became a meeting point for artists and for the city's good society.

In the early 20th century it was refurbished in Liberty style, and that is what you see today: mirrors, wall lights, bentwood chairs, iron tables with marble tops and walnut counters. The terrace railing was forged by prisoners from the San Bartolomeo penal colony. Grazia Deledda, D. H. Lawrence, Gabriele D'Annunzio and Salvatore Quasimodo, among others, passed through its tables. It survived the bombing of the Second World War, was restored in 1998 by the Ruggieri family and is today a historic venue protected by the Ministry of Culture.

What to order

It is open from 7:00 to 2:00, so it works for everything: a cappuccino with pastries in the morning, lunch, an aperitivo on the terrace and dinner. The menu of the day mixes Sardinian and Italian cooking. To try something from the island, order the culurgiones ogliastrini, the pasta stuffed with potato, mint and pecorino (€14), or the handmade fregola with lobster sauce (€18). There is also bluefin tuna tartare, fried calamari and red prawns (€20) and fish of the day. For dessert, the sebada from Lanusei with strawberry-tree honey (€7), the pardula semifreddo or the house tiramisù. The cover charge is €2.50. In season they add a menu with white Alba truffle, quite a bit more expensive.

When to go and booking

It is the natural place for lunch or a drink before or after climbing up to Castello. At midday in summer, the terrace is the most requested table. For lunch or dinner, book by phone or email, especially at the weekend. For a coffee, just walk in.

Getting there

You are in the centre: ten minutes on foot from the port and the station, and right at the exit of the bastion. Do not come by car; the centre has limited-traffic zones.