A Walk through Sa Costa and Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the Bosa of Coloured Houses

Bosa is seen from below and understood from within. The walk joins the two halves of the centre: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the flat, elegant street that runs parallel to the river, and Sa Costa, the medieval district that climbs the hillside to the castle. It is free, can be done at any time and is the best way to reach the castle gate on foot.

The route

Start at the Ponte Vecchio, the stone bridge over the Temo. From the parapet you have the classic view: the coloured boats moored, the tanneries on the opposite bank and the town rising up to the walls. Beside the bridge is the cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, with frescoes inside.

Continue along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with palaces, shops and cafés. Halfway along the street is the Casa Deriu, a manor house that is now a museum and houses the information point; go in if you have bought the combined castle ticket. In the shop windows look for the filet, the mesh embroidery made by Bosa's women.

From the Corso, any of the alleys that climb takes you into Sa Costa. It is a district formed between the 13th and 15th centuries: narrow houses painted pink, blue, green or yellow, stone steps, washing hung out and views that suddenly open over the roofs. Climb with no fixed route towards the castle; all the slopes lead up. Via del Carmine and the Carmine square are the quieter side, with the Su Camasinu wine bar.

If you have more time

A kilometre upriver, along the bank, is San Pietro extramuros, in the Calmedia area, the Romanesque cathedral built over the Roman city. You can also see it from the boat on the Temo.

When to go

First thing, when the light falls head-on on the façades, or at the end of the afternoon, when the Corso fills with people strolling. In summer avoid midday on the slopes of Sa Costa, which have no shade. At carnival, Bosa holds its own with the S'Attitidu, a procession of black masks mourning a puppet.