The murals of Orgosolo, about 150 walls that tell the Barbagia.

Orgosolo is a shepherds' village in the Barbagia, in the mountainous centre of Sardinia, at 620 metres above sea level and with about 4,500 inhabitants. What has made it known outside the island are its murals: according to Sardegna Turismo, the village holds a heritage of about 150 paintings on its façades, most of them on the main street and the alleys that lead off it.

What the murals tell

Orgosolo's muralism dates from the 20th century and began as a tool of protest. That is why many walls speak of politics and culture, dissent and popular struggles, social injustice. Others are calmer and portray the village's everyday life and pastoral traditions: women in traditional dress, shepherds with their flocks, scenes of home and countryside. There are paintings that comment on events in Italy and the world, and texts in Italian and Sardinian alongside the images. Walking among them is reading, wall by wall, how this village has seen itself for decades.

What the visit is like

There is no entrance fee, schedule or official route: you park and walk. In an hour you see the murals on the main street; with two hours you go into the side alleys, where some of the most photographed paintings are, and stop for a coffee. The streets are hilly, but fine on foot and with children. By mid-morning the excursion groups arrive; if you want quiet streets, go first thing or late in the afternoon.

The façades are lived-in houses: photograph from the street, do not enter doorways or courtyards and do not climb the steps of homes.

Getting there and where to park

Orgosolo is about 20 km from Nuoro along a mountain road. From Olbia it is about two hours by car and from Cagliari, almost three (estimated). The centre has narrow streets: leave the car at the entrance to the village and walk up.

What else is around

Orgosolo's territory is enormous and reaches into the heart of the Supramonte: the Montes forest, with shepherds' huts (the pinnettos), yews, junipers and centuries-old hollies; the sas Baddes holm oak wood; the Su Suercone sinkhole; and, on its border with Urzulei, the Gola di Gorropu, which in this guide is in the Gulf of Orosei. In the village, the Cannonau tasting at Cantine di Orgosolo and the Barbagia menu at Il Portico complete the morning.