Lake Bolsena

What it is

Lake Bolsena fills the caldera of an ancient volcanic complex, the Volsini mountains, which collapsed more than 300,000 years ago. It is the fifth largest lake in Italy by area: about 113 km², 13 km long by 11 wide and 43 km of shoreline, at an altitude of 305 metres. It has two islands, Bisentina and Martana, and eight towns on its shores, among them Bolsena, Capodimonte, Marta and Montefiascone.

From Civita it is about half an hour by car, to the west. In summer it is the plan that balances a morning of hills: an afternoon swim in fresh water.

Where to swim

The town of Bolsena, on the north shore, is the most convenient option from Civita: it has a promenade by the lake and the town a step away for lunch or a drink. Capodimonte, on the south shore, opposite Bisentina island, has a harbour with boats that leave to go round the islands. Marta, next to it, is the town where the lake drains into the river of the same name.

Water quality and safety

Bolsena is one of the few large Italian lakes considered suitable for swimming along its entire length, but tests have given different results depending on the year and the spot. In 2017, analyses by the Lazio environmental agency (ARPA Lazio) came out excellent at all its points, while the association Legambiente found pollution at one. Swim in the areas marked as suitable and check the signs on the shore. Keep an eye on children in the water and do not swim far from the shore: the lake is big and deep, with an average depth of 81 metres.

The islands

Martana, the smaller, is private and cannot be visited, but boats leaving from the harbours at Capodimonte and Bolsena go round it. Bisentina, the larger, is opposite Capodimonte. Departures and prices change with the season: ask at the harbour.

What else to see

In the town of Bolsena, the basilica of Santa Cristina is linked to the Miracle of Bolsena of 1263, the origin of the feast of Corpus Christi; the corporal of the miracle is kept in the cathedral of Orvieto.

When to go

From June to September for swimming. In July and August at weekends it fills with people from Rome and Viterbo: go on a weekday or in the late afternoon, when the light on the water is prettiest. Outside summer it is a good mid-afternoon stroll, without a swim.

Getting there and parking

By car from Bagnoregio, about 30 minutes. In summer, at weekends, the car park by the lake fills up: arrive early or in mid-afternoon. Without a car, the lake is far away: it is not a good bus excursion from Bagnoregio.

With children

It is a good family plan: fresh water and towns with facilities nearby. Bring water shoes in case the shore is stony.