geocalia
Civita di Bagnoregio above the valley of the CalanchiGeoTommy28 · CC BY-SA 4.0

What to do · Civita di Bagnoregio

Bagnoregio Viewpoint and Its Old Town

Free view of Civita and its bridge over the calanchi from the Belvedere park in Bagnoregio, a 15-minute walk from the car park.

InformationOn your own · free
Price
On your own · free
Duration
30 min
Who it's for
With a pushchair

What it is

Before crossing to Civita, from the edge of Bagnoregio, you have the postcard view: the footbridge stretched across the valley and, at the end, the village perched on its tuff outcrop, surrounded by the calanchi, almost bare clay gullies opened by erosion over millennia. From here you understand at a glance why Civita is called "the dying city": you see it isolated, held up on a base that is crumbling away.

The viewpoint is in the Belvedere park, in Piazza Alberto Ricci in Bagnoregio, where the descent to the bridge begins. It is free and always open: you do not need the Civita ticket to look out.

Getting there

  • By car: park at the car park in Piazzale Battaglini, at the entrance to Bagnoregio, and cross the town on foot, about 15 minutes through the old town. There are car parks closer to the bridge, but they fill up on busy days. Motorhomes must stay at Battaglini.
  • By shuttle: the Italviaggi town bus links Piazzale Battaglini with Piazza Alberto Ricci, in the Belvedere park. The ticket is bought on board.
  • By bus from Orvieto or Viterbo: COTRAL buses reach Bagnoregio; see bus from Orvieto.

The walk through Bagnoregio

The walk from Battaglini crosses Bagnoregio's old town, which began as Rota, a district of farmers and craftsmen to which the nobles of Civita moved after the earthquakes and collapses. After the earthquake of 1695 the cathedral was also moved here, to the collegiate church of San Nicola. Saint Bonaventure, the Franciscan theologian, was born in Bagnoregio: according to legend, Saint Francis cured him as a child in an Etruscan tomb in Civita.

When to go

At sunset the light falls sideways on the calanchi and the outcrop takes on colour: Civita's own website highlights that hour. First thing in the morning, in autumn and spring, mist sometimes fills the valley and only the village peeks out. At midday in summer the light is harsh and flat, and that is when most people are on the bridge.

What you see and what you do not

You see the whole bridge, the outcrop and the face of the calanchi. You do not see the inside of the village: for that you have to cross, pay the entry and climb up. Allow half an hour if you are just coming to look and take photos, and add about two hours if you then cross to the bridge and village.

With children and pushchairs

The park and the viewpoint are flat and easy with a pushchair. The walk through Bagnoregio from Battaglini has some slope and narrow pavements, but is manageable. What is hard with a pushchair is the bridge, not the viewpoint.

Facilities

The viewpoint has no facilities of its own. To cross, the Mercatello ticket office, next to the bridge, opens on quiet days to buy the Civita ticket.

Tips

  • Come twice if you are sleeping nearby Once at sunset and once first thing: with different light and mist, the view changes a lot.
  • Use the shuttle if you are with children It drops you at the Belvedere park itself and saves you the uphill walk back.
  • Take the photo before going down From the bridge you no longer see the whole scene: the classic framing is up here.

Frequently asked questions

Do you have to pay to see Civita from the viewpoint?

No. The Bagnoregio viewpoint is free; you only pay when crossing the bridge and entering Civita.

Where is the viewpoint?

In the Belvedere park, in Piazza Alberto Ricci in Bagnoregio, where the shuttle stops and the descent to the bridge begins.

What is the best time?

Sunset, for the light on the calanchi, or first thing in autumn and spring, when there is sometimes mist in the valley.

As a family

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

Since 1968

Osteria al Forno di Agnese

Restaurant · Civita di Bagnoregio · €€€€

What to order: pollo alla civitonica.

Book at weekends
Simple

Trattoria Antico Forno

Restaurant · Civita di Bagnoregio · €€€€

What to order: homemade pasta and local dishes.

The room dug into the tuff, with laid tables and standard lamps© Alma CivitaDining room in a cave

Alma Civita

Restaurant · Civita di Bagnoregio · €€€€

What to order: Lazio cooking in a room dug into the tuff.

April to October, lunch every day except Tuesday and dinner at weekends; November to March, lunch Friday to Sunday and dinner on Saturday. Few seats: book

To stay nearby

Country house

Antico Forno Rooms

Civita · 15th-century building · Simple rooms

Why we like it: Simple rooms above the trattoria, on the square. The budget way of staying on the outcrop.

The Badessa suite, with a wrought-iron canopy bed, white beams and a freestanding bath© Corte della MaestàSmall hotel

Corte della Maestà

Civita · Former bishop's residence · Four rooms

Why we like it: For sleeping inside the village when everyone else leaves. A few carefully kept rooms in a historic house.