Boat to Santa Croce Beach from Amalfi

What it is

Santa Croce is a small cove west of Amalfi, with about a hundred metres of shoreline, tucked beneath the cliff on the way to Conca dei Marini. It takes its name from the remains of an old chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross. It has pebbles instead of sand, very clean water and, to one side, a natural rock arch that you see from the boat as you arrive. It is a beach for spending the day: swimming, lying back and watching the evening fall, which here sets over the sea.

Access by land is awkward, so the normal way is to arrive by sea. That is the charm of the plan: you leave behind Amalfi's busy harbour and within minutes you are on a much quieter shore.

Getting there by boat

The boats of Amalfi's boatmen's cooperative, the Gruppo Battellieri Amalfi, leave Amalfi harbour every hour from June to September. Their list of excursions gives departures from 9:30 to 17:00 (the beaches page says from 9:00). Each trip costs €4, so a return is €8 per person. The same shuttle also stops at Duoglio, a beach of about 170 metres a kilometre from Amalfi, with equally clear water and closer to the town.

You buy the ticket at the harbour, at the boatmen's point. Ask when boarding what time the last boat back leaves and do not cut it fine: if you miss it, getting out of the cove becomes complicated.

Out of season, from October to May, there is no shuttle. If you want to see the cove at another time, the cooperative's Girocosta, a one-hour boat trip from Amalfi, passes in front of Santa Croce, its arch and the Grotta di Sant'Andrea, although it does not stop for swimming.

When to go

July and August are the busiest months and the sea is warmest. June and September are usually better: the water is good and there are fewer boats. Take one of the first departures in the morning if you want a spot near the water, and stay for the last one if you like the light at sunset.

In heavy swell or strong wind the boats may not sail. If the day is rough, ask at the harbour before buying.

What to bring and facilities

The boatmen's website does not detail what facilities there are on the beach, so go prepared: water, something to eat, sun protection and a parasol or a hat, because shade depends on the time and on the cliff. The pebbles make water shoes almost essential, especially for children. A snorkel mask is useful: you can see the seabed well from the shore.

With children

The boat ride is short and children usually enjoy it. On the beach, keep an eye on them in the water: it is open sea. If you want something shorter and closer to the town, Duoglio is a short hop from Amalfi on the same shuttle.

Combine it with

Before or after the beach, the Grotta dello Smeraldo is a short distance to the west. To travel between towns without touching the road, use the boat from Amalfi to Positano. And if you want to see the inside of the valley, the visit to a family lemon grove leaves in the mid-afternoon, just as you come back from the beach.