Arvanitia promenade and Akronafplia

What it is

The Arvanitia promenade is the path beside the sea that circles the rock of Akronafplia, from Nafplio harbour to the small Arvanitia beach, at the foot of Palamidi. It is flat, runs right beside the water the whole way and costs nothing. On one side you have the rock faces and walls of the old acropolis; on the other, the Argolic Gulf. It is the locals' walk at any hour, and at sunset, when the sun drops over the gulf, the busiest.

Akronafplia, the rock you walk round

Akronafplia is the rocky peninsula that was Nafplio's acropolis. The Turks called it Its-Kale, “inside the fortress”. It has been inhabited since prehistory and came to have three levels, with a castle on each: the first, from the 3rd century; the second, Frankish; and the Venetians added the “Five Brothers” bastion, named for its five cannon. In 1822 Kolokotronis raised the flag of freedom here. Later there was a church and hospital in Kapodistrias's time, Bavarian military stores and, for decades, military prisons, until they were closed and a large hotel was built in their place.

The route

1. From the harbour. Start at the west end of the harbour front, with Bourtzi on its islet in front of you.

2. Under the rock. The promenade rounds the tip of Akronafplia and continues beneath the rock face, with the sea a few metres away.

3. Arvanitia. You reach Arvanitia square and its beach, below Palamidi's Themistocles bastion. If you want to continue, a coastal path leaves the square for Karathona beach.

4. Return. Go back the same way or climb Akronafplia: the rock can be reached from Arvanitia square and from Staikopoulos park, and also by the steps of the Catholic church and the gate of Toroni castle, in the old town.

Allow an hour there and back, unhurried and with stops.

Arvanitia beach

It is Nafplio's town beach, about ten minutes' walk from the centre. It is only 200 m long, but the water is clear and it has a Blue Flag. There are umbrellas and sunbeds, showers, toilets and a bar with coffee, drinks and snacks. If you come by car, there is free parking at the entrance.

The name has a legend: it is said that in 1779 the captain pasha tricked Albanian mercenaries up to Palamidi and threw them into the sea from there. The likeliest explanation is simpler: since Venetian times Albanians, Arvanites, lived in the area.

When to go

All year. In summer, first thing or at dusk, to avoid the midday heat. Sunset is the classic moment, with the gulf lit up. In winter it is a pleasant walk at any time.

With children, a pushchair or a dog

It is flat and works well with a pushchair and small children. Keep an eye on them on the stretches open to the sea. With a dog, the walk is comfortable; on the beach, in swimming season, better not.

Combine it

It fits as the finish to a day in the city: come down from Palamidi by the stairway, which ends near Arvanitia, have a swim and return to the old town along the promenade. For dinner with a view of Bourtzi, Circle, the restaurant of the Amphitryon hotel, is at the foot of Akronafplia.