The Colourful Cabins of Le Château-d'Oléron

What it is

Le Château-d'Oléron is the first town on the island as you come off the bridge, and one of the great oyster ports of the Marennes-Oléron basin. Its port, rebuilt in 1740, is lined with former oyster farmers' cabins that have been restored and painted in bright colours; today nearly all of them are artists' and craftspeople's workshops, small shops and a place or two to eat oysters. Beside it rises the citadel, which Richelieu ordered built in 1630, after the fall of La Rochelle, and which Vauban later extended.

It is a stroll with no ticket or opening hours, lasting an hour or a little more if you go into the workshops. It works well as a first stop on the island or as the end of a day's cycling.

The stroll

Start in the centre, in place de la République, where the Château market is held: Tuesday to Sunday morning, and every day in July and August, with oyster farmers, fishmongers and bakers. From there you go down to the port in a few minutes.

Walk along the canal. Along the quays the wooden cabins are lined up, with coloured doors and shutters, in front of the boats of the oyster farmers who still work here. Each workshop has its own hours; they open mainly in season, and in winter many are closed. At the far end, towards the sea, you see the oyster beds of the strait and, on the other side, the mainland coast.

Return via the citadel, beside the port, to see its ramparts and look out over the strait.

When to go

From spring to autumn the workshops and tasting cabins are open and the port is lively; in July and August, very much so. Go in the morning, when there is a market, or late in the afternoon, with the low light on the cabins. In winter the stroll is still pretty, but most workshops close.

The tide changes the look of the canal: at low tide the boats sit on the mud; at high tide the canal fills. Both have their charm.

Getting there and parking

By car, cross the Oléron bridge, which is free, and follow the signs to the centre and the port. In summer the centre fills up: arrive early or park a bit further away and walk.

By bike, the Château is the natural starting point for the Route des Huîtres towards Fort-Royer and Boyardville; the suggestion is in Oléron by bike and the bike hire is on avenue d'Antioche.

If you are in a motorhome, the Moulin des Sables area, facing the sea and 800 m from the centre, lets you walk. The Camping Les Remparts is a step away from the market and the port.

With children and dogs

The stroll is flat and short, suitable for pushchairs. With children, watch the edge of the quays. With a dog on a lead there is no problem in the streets and the port; in the workshops, ask before going in.

What to combine

Across the strait, opposite Le Chapus, is Fort Louvois. To the north, along the Route des Huîtres, Fort-Royer and the cabin of Établissement Testard. To the south, the Port des Salines, in Grand-Village.