GR 34 from Paramé to Rothéneuf

What it is

The GR 34 is the customs officers' path, the route that goes round the Brittany coast. This stretch leaves from the end of the Sillon beach, in Paramé, and follows the coast point after point to Rothéneuf, where the carved rocks are. It is the wildest part of Saint-Malo's territory: coves, wooden steps, small beaches among villas and, halfway, the Pointe de la Varde, a protected natural area with one of the widest views of the city and the bay.

Allow about two and a half hours of easy walking, not counting stops. It is not difficult, but it has many steps and some rocky stretches.

The route, step by step

1. The Sillon. If you set out from intra-muros, the first part is the Sillon sea wall, 1,671 metres of promenade beside Sillon beach, with late-19th-century villas on one side and the oak groynes on the other. It is flat and tarmacked.
2. Rochebonne and Paramé. At the end of the sea wall the real coastal path begins. At high tide do not try to go round the rocks at the Pointe de Rochebonne: go up to the street and follow the marks.
3. The Paramé beaches. The path goes down and up between the plage du Val, the plage du Pont and short stretches of street. At the plage du Pont, at high tide, you cannot pass over the sand: follow the sea wall to the end and continue along the streets the waymarking indicates.
4. The Pointe de la Varde. It is the great viewpoint of the route, a headland with a view of Saint-Malo, Cap Fréhel and the islands. Stay on the marked path: it is a protected area and there is wildlife that must not be disturbed.
5. Rothéneuf. After the Varde, the path goes round the coast to Rothéneuf and its beaches. The rocks carved by Abbé Fouré are above the sea, next to the path; entering the enclosure is paid.

For those who want to continue, the GR 34 goes on to the Guimorais beach, in Saint-Coulomb, and beyond towards Cancale. The Brittany tourist board suggests a 12.5 km stage, about 3 h 30, which begins in Dinard with the Bus de Mer and ends at the Guimorais.

Waymarking and navigation

The GR 34 is waymarked with the white and red marks of long-distance footpaths. On this stretch, among streets and vegetation, some marks are hard to see; carry the map downloaded on your phone. When the path goes over sand, the tide decides: if the water is high, always look for the street variant.

Where to start and how to return

You can set out on foot from intra-muros along the Sillon or start in Paramé. There is parking for cars and motorhomes at the Pointe de la Varde, which lets you split the route in two. To avoid retracing your steps, return to intra-muros on the MAT network city bus from Rothéneuf: check the line and timetable on the network's website before setting out. If you are sleeping in a motorhome, the Les Ilots area is at Rothéneuf, at the end of the stretch.

When to go

It can be done all year. From May to September there is more light and more people; the stretch is one of the busiest on the coast in summer. In winter the wind hits hard on the points. Plan with the tide table: at low tide you have the beach variants and the walk is prettier.

Water, shade and food

There is almost no shade: the path is exposed to sun and wind. Bring water; at Paramé and Rothéneuf you pass through districts with shops and bars, but not at the Varde. Bring a windcheater even if the day looks fine.

With children, with a dog and if the weather changes

With primary-school children it works well in short stretches: the walk around the Varde from its car park is short and scenic. Not with a pushchair: there are steps, roots and rock. With a dog you can do the path on a lead, but note that on Sillon beach dogs are banned from April to September. If rain comes or the wind rises, the path always runs close to streets and bus stops: you can cut it short at Paramé or Rothéneuf.