Cycling through the peatlands to Dwarsgracht and Jonen

What it is

Giethoorn is best seen by boat, but the landscape that explains it is all around: the De Wieden peatlands, the southern half of the Weerribben-Wieden National Park. For centuries the villagers cut peat from this marshy ground; the ditches filled with water and became lakes, canals and narrow strips of land among the reeds. By bike you ride through that landscape on flat, almost car-free paths, and reach two hamlets that look like the Giethoorn of before the crowds: Dwarsgracht and Jonen.

The route step by step

It leaves from the centre of Giethoorn. In the village, cross the bridge, take the Cornelisgracht and follow the signs for Dwarsgracht. In a few kilometres you reach this peat-cutters' hamlet, with houses on tiny islands linked by bridges and the oldest ash tree in the Netherlands. Continue along paths between hay meadows and reedbeds to the Jonen ferry, a pontoon for pedestrians and cyclists that crosses the Walengracht canal in a few minutes. Jonen is a hamlet that can only be reached by water or by this crossing.

On the other side you can carry on towards Blokzijl, the old Zuiderzee port, or close the loop back to Giethoorn. The published loops via Dwarsgracht and the Jonen ferry come to about 23 km, in around two and a half hours with stops; if you add Blokzijl, they exceed 40 km.

The Netherlands signposts its cycle routes with a network of numbered junctions (fietsknooppunten): note down the sequence of numbers at the office or in an app and follow the green junction posts from crossing to crossing. Bring the map, because between canals it is easy to take the wrong bridge.

Difficulty, water and shade

Everything is flat. What tires you is the wind, which in this open area blows unobstructed: if you can, set off against the wind and come back with it behind you. There is little shade outside the stretches of swamp woodland, so in summer bring water and a cap. If it rains hard, Giethoorn and Blokzijl have cafés and restaurants where you can wait.

The Jonen ferry

It runs in season, from spring to autumn and only by day; according to the information in circulation, from April to October, roughly between 9:00 or 10:00 and 17:30 or 19:00 depending on the month. Confirm the fare and the timetable for the year with Visit Weerribben-Wieden before you set off, especially in spring or autumn. If it is closed, return the way you came.

Bike hire and when to go

Several businesses in the village hire bikes, among them the Kanodorp Dwarsgracht, which also hires canoes and is right on the route. Spring is the best time: the meadows fill with lapwings and curlews, and it is not hot. In September the paths are quiet.

With children and with a dog

With children it is a good route because it is flat and each stretch is short, but think about the wind on the way back. The paths run right beside the water and do not always have railings: keep an eye on little ones on the bridges. If you take a dog, in the Natuurmonumenten areas in De Wieden dogs are only admitted on a limited basis; find out beforehand.

How to get there and where to park

Leave the car in the car parks at the entrance and start from the centre. By public transport you arrive on the bus 70 from Steenwijk. If you want to combine, do the Dwarsgracht stretch by canoe through De Wieden and the rest by bike, on different days.