Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal)

What it is

In a former quarry north of the old town, a dying lion is carved directly into the rock face, above a small pond surrounded by trees. It has a spear in its flank and rests its paw on a shield bearing the fleur-de-lis of the Bourbons. It measures ten metres by six. This is the Löwendenkmal, the Lion Monument, and you can see it for free, at any hour.

Why it is here

The lion commemorates the Swiss Guards who died on 10 August 1792 in the storming of the Tuileries Palace in Paris, as they protected King Louis XVI during the Revolution. For centuries the Swiss cantons hired out their soldiers to the courts of Europe, and Lucerne was one of the cities that supplied the most mercenaries. The design is by the Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, and the monument was unveiled in 1821.

Mark Twain called it, in a much-quoted phrase, the saddest and most moving piece of stone in the world. When you see it you will understand why: the lion does not roar, it is dying.

How to visit

It is about ten minutes' walk from Chapel Bridge, going up the Löwenstrasse from the lake. Stand opposite the pond, at a distance: the lion reads better from afar than from the railing. Twenty minutes is enough, but it is a good place to sit for a while in the shade. It is a place of remembrance: keep your voice down.

What is nearby

Next door, on the Löwenplatz, is the Old Swiss House, the restaurant in the half-timbered house of 1858, famous for its breaded schnitzel prepared at the table. If you carry on towards the lake, you reach the Schweizerhofquai, the promenade of the grand hotels. It is easy to link the lion with Chapel Bridge and the old town in one morning on foot.