Diving at Tabarca, posidonia, groupers and wrecks twenty minutes from Santa Pola.

Beneath the boats that come and go from Tabarca there is rock, posidonia and big fish that are not afraid. To see them up close, with a tank, you set out from Santa Pola.

What is underwater

The Tabarca marine reserve was created in 1986 and was the first in Spain. It protects 1,754 hectares around the island, with seabeds from 0 to 40 metres and healthy posidonia meadows. Recreational fishing is prohibited, and underwater you can tell. Outside the reserve, the seabed off Santa Pola holds several wrecks, from sunken wooden boats to steel First World War cargo ships.

Scuba diving inside the reserve needs authorisation and has set sites and days, so the simplest way is to go with a centre that handles it. Scuba Elx, a PADI centre based in the port of Santa Pola, sails all year to the island, about twenty minutes by boat. The water runs from 14 °C in winter to 28 °C at the end of summer.

The dive sites

Inside the reserve, the basic-level ones are Escull Negre and La Nao, between 2 and 13 metres: the first with holes in the rock where you should bring a torch, the second with rock formations and two arches. The Artificial Reefs, between 20 and 24 metres, and Merolandia 24, with caves, are intermediate level; Merolandia 28, advanced, is descended by the anchor line. El Claro 10, a sandy bottom, is used for introductory dives and courses. For the deepest sites the centre recommends nitrox.

Outside the reserve are Tabarca Reef, a rock barrier at 10–14 metres, Wreck 19, the Cuca, a wooden one, at 24 metres, and for advanced divers the Congrios wreck, the Cardi boat and the Anchor, an old anchor of more than six metres, at over 30. The cargo ships Mardinian and Ville de Verdun, between 42 and 56 metres, are technical dives with a surcharge.

When you can dive

The inner waters of the reserve are dived all year. From 1 October to 31 March, on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays; from 1 April to 30 September, also on Tuesdays. The outer waters, with La Nao and Merolandia, are not dived in January, and from April to September there are departures every day. Places are limited, so book in advance. You no longer need to process the reserve permit a week ahead, but on the day of the dive you must have your certification, ID and diving insurance with you, and the insurance can be taken out that morning at the centre.

How much it costs to go down

A dive without equipment costs €38; with tank and weights, €43; with full equipment, €63. The double dive with full equipment is €106 and the night dive, from €42. For those who dive often there are passes of 6 dives, for €236.50, and of 12, for €430, tank only. If you want to get certified, the PADI Open Water Diver costs €449.

The introductory dive, if you have never dived

The introductory dive costs €110 and is from age 10; under-18s need parental permission. You do not need to be able to swim, because you only kick with your legs. It starts with a short theory class at the centre, continues with about twenty minutes by boat and a dive with an instructor just for you, with all equipment, insurance and a soft drink. The centre does it from a boat near the coast; ask when you book whether that day goes to Tabarca. Afterwards there are showers in the changing rooms, and if you do the Open Water in the following six months, they discount part of it.

Before and after

The centre is on avenida Jesús Astondoa Santamaría, on the Santa Pola port promenade. If you want to set foot on the island the same day, the boat from Santa Pola crosses in a quarter of an hour, and the caldero at Mar Azul waits on the central beach.