The Sil canyon by catamaran, between walls of vineyards.

The Sil runs here wedged between granite slopes with terraced vineyards. From the water you see what you can't see from the viewpoints: the vine terraces that come down almost to the water.

What it is and why it is worth doing

The narrowest stretch of the Sil canyon, in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra, is a long, narrow reservoir between walls hundreds of metres high. Above are the famous viewpoints, such as the Balcones de Madrid; below, the still river, the vine terraces that come down in steps to the water, the chestnut trees and the odd monastery peering out from the hillside. The boat is the way to see it from inside, without walking and without bends.

There are two boats, one on each bank. From Santo Estevo, on the Ourense side, Hemisferios sails with large catamarans, with a guide on board, heating and a toilet, and the trip lasts an hour and a quarter. From Os Chancís, on the Lugo side, SilTrip sails an eleven-seat boat that, because of its shallow draught, gets close to the shore; it lasts an hour, reaches the area of the Balcones de Madrid and Cadeiras, and the skipper tells legends of the canyon with a glass of D.O. Ribeira Sacra wine.

Who it is for

For all ages. It is the plan for going with small children, with older people or with anyone who doesn't want to walk. From Santo Estevo children under five pay €3, and on SilTrip's boat babies under one don't pay. What neither of them admits is animals; Hemisferios doesn't admit baby pushchairs either. The Os Chancís landing stage is reached down six flights of steps and has no toilet or changing rooms.

Getting there

To Santo Estevo you drive from Ourense via Luíntra, in Nogueira de Ramuín: the landing stage is below the monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil. Os Chancís is opposite, in the municipality of Sober, in the province of Lugo, and you go down by the road that descends to the river from the north bank. The practical way is to go by car: both landing stages are at the bottom of the canyon.

When to go

Hemisferios sails every day of the year, with times that change according to the date and are chosen when you book. SilTrip is open from March to October and closes on Mondays; it has daily departures at 13:00 and 16:00, and from May to September also at 11:00. On the water it is considerably cooler than above, so bring a layer even in summer. Autumn, with the vines changing colour, is the most spectacular time.

How much it costs

From Santo Estevo, €12 for adults aged 18 to 65, €10 for over-65s, €6 for ages 5 to 17 and €3 for under-5s. From Os Chancís, €20 per person with the glass of wine; the private boat costs €200 an hour. Groups of more than 20 people can ask Hemisferios for a price.

If it rains

The Santo Estevo catamarans are covered and heated, so the trip is a good option in bad weather, when the viewpoints are lost in fog. Afterwards, a visit to a Ribeira Sacra winery, always by appointment.