Church of Santa María de la Encarnación

Santa María de la Encarnación is the oldest church in Jerez de los Caballeros and the one that best tells what existed before the Templars. It is on Plaza de Santa María, hard against the alcazaba, at the very top of the old town, and is seen on the same walk as the fortress.

History: from the Visigoths to the 16th century

Its origin is Visigothic. Inside is preserved a column with an inscription from the year 556 recording the date of foundation: for the tourist office, it is the oldest religious testimony in the town. On that church the present one was built. Turismo de Extremadura dates it to the mid-15th century, with an extension in the 16th, which is the fabric you see today.

That it stands beside the fortress is no accident. This was the church of the upper enclosure, that of the alcazaba the Templars rebuilt in the 13th century and which later passed to the Order of Santiago.

What to see

Outside, its tower is the most sober of the four in the city of towers: four stages of granite and rubble masonry, of robust appearance, above the main entrance. In contrast to the brick-and-ceramic towers of San Bartolomé and San Miguel, built after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, this one keeps the air of a fortress.

Inside it has three naves and a Latin-cross plan, with Baroque decoration. Look for the column with the Visigothic inscription, which is the piece that gives the visit its meaning.

How to visit

It is a working parish, so it is visited outside services. Neither the tourist office nor Turismo de Extremadura publishes fixed opening hours: you have to ask at the tourist office, on 924 730 372, which is open Tuesday to Saturday morning and afternoon. The office asks for silence, suitable clothing and no flash during services. Allow about 20 minutes.

What to combine

Santa María is on the same upper square as the Templar alcazaba and the Bloody Tower, free to enter: the natural thing is to see both one after the other. From there you can do the circuit of the wall by its gates and go down through the Villa gate to Plaza de España. For eating nearby, see the Restaurante Santa María.

The streets that climb up here are cobbled and steep. If you go with a pushchair or with someone with reduced mobility, ask the tourist office beforehand about the easiest access.