El Rey de Patones

The restaurant that opened the village

Manolo and Mari had travelled half the world devoted to dance when they discovered Patones de Arriba, then almost abandoned, and decided to retire there. In 1970 they opened the village's first restaurant, which is why the house presents itself as a pioneer. Manolo's stories and Mari's cooking were for decades the heart of the place; today it is run by their daughter Emily, who studied at Le Cordon Bleu and makes the home-made desserts.

Two stone dining rooms and a viewpoint terrace

El Rey de Patones is at Calle de Azas, 13, inside the village. It has two indoor dining rooms, recently renovated, built with sierra stone and with fireplaces for winter, and a viewpoint terrace from which you see the black slate architecture of the surrounding houses. In spring and autumn it is the terrace people ask for.

What to order

Simple cooking of family heritage. Among local specialities, suckling kid, migas and fabes. In addition, every weekend they prepare new dishes with seasonal produce, so it is worth asking what there is. The menu is on its website, at a link to a digital menu, where prices are checked.

From 11:30 to 18:00, according to tourism

The Sierra Norte tourism listing gives it hours of 11:30 to 18:00 every day; to go on a weekday, call first on 91 843 20 37 or 696 936 492. Book online from its website or at [email protected].

On foot from Patones de Abajo

Car access to Patones de Arriba is reserved for residents and authorised vehicles, with a camera and fine. Leave the car in the free car park at Patones de Abajo and walk up the Barranco Path, about 800 metres, or take the weekend and public-holiday shuttle explained by the tourist office.

Up top, the walk round Patones de Arriba is done before or after eating. By car, the Pontón de la Oliva dam is a few minutes away. If you want to stay, El Bulín de Patones is on Calle de las Escuelas.