geocalia
Rowing boats on the Great Pond in El Retiro, with the Alfonso XII monument in the backgroundDiego Delso · CC BY-SA 4.0

What to do · Madrid

El Retiro and a rowing boat on the Great Pond

Stroll · 1–2 h · Park free · Boat €6 on weekdays, €8 at weekends, 45 min and up to 4 people

InformationFrom €6 per boat
From
€6 per boat
Duration
1 h 30
Season
All year; park 6:00 to 22:00 from October to March and 6:00 to 24:00 from April to September; boats 10:00 to 14:00 and 15:15 until sunset
Who it's for
All ages; under-14s in a boat with someone over 18
With a dog
On a lead; dog areas open from 7:30

You enter by the Puerta de la Independencia or the Puerta de Felipe IV, go down to the Great Pond, hire a rowing boat and go round in front of the Alfonso XII monument for three quarters of an hour. Then you carry on on foot to the Palacio de Cristal. The park is free and opens at six in the morning.

The boat: 45 minutes, four seats and booking

The landing stage hires boats every day from 10:00 to 14:00 and from 15:15 until a closing time that ranges from 17:15 to 20:30, depending on the light and the time of year: in November, the afternoon is short. Each boat costs €6 from Monday to Friday and €8 on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, for 45 minutes and up to four people. Under-14s must go with someone over 18. Over-65s pay €1.80 per boat on weekdays until 14:00, showing proof of age.

To avoid depending on the weekend queue, you can book on the Madrid Móvil app or at deportesweb.madrid.es, in the open classes section, choosing the pond facility. The landing stage closes on 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 January.

Park hours and alert days

El Retiro is open from 6:00 to 22:00 from October to March and from 6:00 to midnight from April to September. In strong wind, snow or extreme heat, the City Council cordons off areas or closes the park: it announces this on its X account @MADRID and on screens at the gates about two hours beforehand.

By metro, Retiro (L2) comes out at Plaza de la Independencia, a few minutes from the pond. Ibiza (L9) is to the east and Atocha (L1) to the south.

Tips

  • In November, the boat before lunch The landing stage closes early in the afternoon with little light: the 10:00 to 14:00 slot is the longest.
  • With a dog The dog areas open from 7:30; in the rest of the park, on a lead.

Frequently asked questions

How much does a boat cost in El Retiro?

€6 on weekdays and €8 at weekends and public holidays, per boat.

Can I book the boats?

Yes, on the Madrid Móvil app or at deportesweb.madrid.es.

What time does El Retiro close?

At 22:00 from October to March and at midnight from April to September.

As a familyWith teenagersWith a dog

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

The bar at Casa Alberto, with bottles on wooden shelves up to the ceiling© Casa Alberto

Casa Alberto

Restaurant · Madrid · €€€€

What to order: at the bar, a house vermouth with a slice of omelette or the squid bocatín; in the dining room, tripe or braised oxtail

The tavern mirror with the menu painted by hand, among tiles and old black-and-white photos© La Casa del Abuelo

La Casa del Abuelo

Bar · Madrid · €€€€

What to order: garlic prawns and a chato of the house sweet wine; if there are more of you, langostinos in batter and red-prawn croquettes

A slice of battered salt cod on a plate, with a glass of beer behind© Casa Revuelta

Casa Revuelta

Bar · Madrid · €€€€

What to order: a slice of battered salt cod with a small beer or a vermouth; if you stay, a half portion of tripe and some croquettes

To stay nearby

The hotel lounge at night, with chandeliers, velvet armchairs and the bar at the far end© Gran Hotel InglésHotel

Gran Hotel Inglés

Restored 1886 hotel · Barrio de las Letras · Lobbyto restaurant and cocktail bar · Pets accepted

Dogs welcome

Why we like it: Five-star hotel from 1886 on Calle de Echegaray, in the Barrio de las Letras, with Art Deco rooms, a cocktail bar and pets welcome.

The breakfast room, with the buffet and crystal lamps© Hotel LiabenyHotel

Hotel Liabeny

Between Sol, Callao and Gran Vía · Own car park · Gym with sauna · Restaurant Lya67

Why we like it: Four-star hotel between Sol and Callao with its own car park and electric charger; singles from €90 and doubles from €122 a night.

From €90 / night View details
The rooftop covered with reed matting, with wooden tables and a church dome in the background© The Hat MadridHostel

The Hat Madrid

Doubles, apartments and dormitories of 4 to 10 · Women-only rooms · Rooftop with bar and kitchen · 24-hour reception

Why we like it: Hostel a hundred metres from Plaza Mayor with private doubles, dormitories of 4 to 10 beds, women-only rooms and a rooftop bar.

Itineraries

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