Swimming at the Toll de la Palla, up the Siurana river

What it is

The Toll de la Palla is a natural pool on the Siurana river, upstream of the reservoir, at the bottom of the valley you see from the village. It is the best known of a chain of pools: upstream lies the Toll de la Cinteta and downstream the Toll del Forn. Cold green water among rock, with no services of any kind. It is a river swim for summer, not a beach.

Getting there from Siurana along the Camí de la Trona

It is the access most people use if you are already in the village.

1. Park in the castle car park, P1 of the Siurana car parks, beside the ruins.
2. Take the Camí de la Trona, the PR-C 7, with yellow markings. It is a narrow ledge carved into the crag.
3. The path comes out on a track. Turn right.
4. Follow the track. First you reach the Toll de la Cinteta, which some call the Toll de la Banyera: you have to look for the path that goes down to the water.
5. Continue along the track to the Toll de la Palla, where you also have to find the way down.

Bear in mind that the Trona is an exposed path, not recommended with vertigo or small children.

Getting there by the road

If you come from Cornudella by car and prefer to avoid the ledge:

1. On the Cornudella to Siurana road, just before a very wide bend with reddish rock that locals call the "tomb de paella", park where you do not obstruct traffic.
2. Before the bend a path leaves with a green post, without a sign.
3. After a few metres you find a chain with a padlock: continue on foot.
4. In about 30 minutes you are at the Toll de la Palla.

This access is not signposted and parking is on the verge: arrive early or you will not find a space.

From the reservoir: the Toll del Forn

If you are going with small children, the easiest alternative is the Toll del Forn. Park in the dam car park, cross the dam on foot, take the path on the left up to the chain that marks the start and follow the shore of the reservoir: about 30 minutes with almost no climb. If you continue upstream, crossing the riverbed several times, you reach the Toll de la Palla.

When to go

In midsummer, which is when the water is inviting; in June and September it is colder but there are fewer people. Go in the morning, when the road verge still has room. After storms the river can run higher and cloudy. Turisme Siurana does not publish bathing rules or water status.

Safety and what to bring

There is no lifeguard, no toilets and no bins. Enter the water slowly: it is cold and the depth changes suddenly. Do not jump without checking the bottom. Bring water shoes or river sandals, drinking water, food, and a bag to carry out your rubbish. The paths down to the water are not marked: move carefully on the wet rock. Coverage at the bottom of the valley is poor.

With children and with a dog

With children, better via the reservoir to the Toll del Forn, or by the road, which avoids the ledge. With a dog, on a lead on the track and respecting those who are bathing.

After the swim

Go up to see the village and the castle at sunset, or hire a kayak on the reservoir for a while, which has changing rooms and its own bathing area. The Càmping Siurana bar, at the entrance to the village, opens every day.