Castellfollit de la Roca, a village on the edge of the basalt

What it is

Castellfollit de la Roca is a village built along the edge of a basalt cliff more than 50 m high and almost a kilometre long, at the confluence of the rivers Fluvià and Toronell. The rock is lava: two volcanic flows from around 217,000 and 192,000 years ago, coming from the Olot area and the Begudà volcanoes, which the rivers gradually eroded until they left the vertical wall with its basalt columns. The houses lean out over the void at the narrowest point. It is one of the smallest municipalities in Catalonia, barely 0.7 km², and is part of the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.

From Besalú it is about 15 minutes by car, on the way to Olot.

What to see

• The cliff from below: this is the image of the village. The panoramic view of the wall with the houses on top appears from the road, just before you arrive. For a relaxed photo, go down to the riverbank.
• Plaça de Josep Pla: the viewpoint at the end of the cliff, over the valley of the two rivers. It is right on the edge: keep an eye on the children.
• Church of Sant Salvador: opposite the square. It was destroyed in the Civil War and today is a cultural space; you can climb the bell tower to see the valley.
• Old town: narrow streets, of medieval layout and built largely from volcanic stone. The original walled village was lost in the earthquakes of 1427 and 1428.
• Sant Roc bell tower, a little apart from the old nucleus, with a clock from 1925.

The full visit, with the walk round the old town and the viewpoint, takes about an hour.

The loop around the cliff

If you want to walk, the Natural Park has a route that goes round the cliff, number 13 in its network, of about 2.8 km, 125 m of ascent and an hour and a quarter. It goes down to the river and climbs back up to the village, so you see the wall from below and from above. Check the route on the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park website before setting out.

Getting there and parking

From Besalú, take the road towards Olot; in about 15 minutes you are in Castellfollit. Park at the entrance to the village and walk in: the streets of the old town are narrow and there is no room to leave the car inside. Without a car, the TEISA buses linking Barcelona and Girona with Olot stop in the village; check times at the TEISA bus.

When to go

Any time of year works, and late in the afternoon the light is warmer. In autumn the riverside woods change colour. On Saturdays there is a market in the village. In the rain, the black rock gleams and the river runs fuller, but the path of the loop around the cliff gets muddy.

With children and with a dog

For children, the basalt wall and the lava columns are what impresses most, and the walk through the village is short. With a pushchair you can stroll the old town, although there are some slopes. With a dog, no problem along the streets and the path, on a lead at the viewpoint.

Complete the day

Combine it with the morning in Besalú: the fortified bridge and the Jewish quarter. If you carry on towards Olot, you are in the heart of the volcanic zone. For lunch back in Besalú, Restaurant Oliveras serves a Catalan cuisine buffet at midday.