Walk to the Uelhs deth Joèu, at Artiga de Lin

At the Uelhs deth Joèu, the "eyes of Jupiter", the water that sinks into the Forau d'Aigualluts, at the foot of the Aneto glacier, on the Mediterranean side of the mountain, gushes out powerfully between moss-covered rocks. Here it emerges on the Atlantic side and forms the Joèu river, which ends in the Garonne. It was shown in 1931 by the speleologist Norbert Casteret, who poured 60 kg of fluorescein into the Forau and saw the dyed water appear at this point. Around it is Artiga de Lin, a closed valley of meadows, beech and fir, with water coming out everywhere.

Seven kilometres from the square in Es Bòrdes

Es Bòrdes is 7 km from Vielha along the N-230, towards France. In the village square starts the paved road that climbs the Joèu valley; about 7 km along is the Uelhs deth Joèu car park, at 1,393 metres, where the walk starts. A kilometre further up there is another car park, beside the Artiga de Lin refuge.

In summer access changes: according to Rutes Pirineus, from mid-July to mid-September traffic is restricted on the last 3 km of the track, a tourist train runs and cars stay in the car park before the chapel of the Mare de Déu de la Artiga. The dates change every year: confirm them at the Vielha tourist office before going up.

The loop, step by step

From the car park you go down a couple of minutes towards the sound of water and reach the Uelhs, with a viewpoint a few metres from the spring. A metal bridge crosses the newborn river and the path climbs through the woods with log steps, wooden railings, benches and panels. It passes the entrance to the Plan dera Artiga, crosses the Puis ravine and reaches the Artiga de Lin refuge, at the foot of the Còth deth Hòro, with the walls at the head of the cirque in front. From the refuge, Rutes Pirineus adds a short detour to the Pomèro waterfall. The return to the car is along the paved road.

Visit Val d'Aran gives 2.5 km, 90 metres of ascent and an hour; with the waterfall, Rutes Pirineus counts 3 km and an hour and ten minutes without stops. The path is signposted and easy, but the damp makes it slippery in places: hold small children's hands. With a pushchair, the woodland stretch has steps; if you are with one, drive up to the refuge car park and do only the flat part.

When to go and what to bring

The best season runs from late spring to late autumn; outside it snow is easy to find. In summer the place fills up, so arrive early. The listings mention no bar or facilities: bring water and something to eat. If you go with a dog, keep it on a lead: the meadows are grazing land.

To round off the day

From Es Bòrdes, the N-230 continues to France as far as Bossòst. On the Portilhon road, above the village, Aran Park shows Pyrenean bears and wolves, and on Carrer Major Er Occitan serves dinner by reservation.