Church of Sant Andrèu de Salardú and its paintings

Salardú is the village below Baqueira, and its church of Sant Andrèu, from the 12th to the 15th centuries, keeps one of the most extensive and best-preserved sets of wall paintings in Aran, from the 17th century, beside the presbytery. In the central apse is a Romanesque Christ of the 12th century, from the same Erill la Vall workshop as the one in Vielha.

What to look at

From outside, the church has the look of late Romanesque, around the 13th century: a basilica plan with three apses and a portal without a tympanum, of five diminishing archivolts, protected by a drip moulding and decorated with plant motifs. Above the keystone of the arch there is a chrismon, the monogram of Christ. Around the wall, under the eaves, runs a row of carved corbels.

At the south-west corner rises the 15th-century bell tower, which on its ground floor still keeps a vaulted, habitable room. The church was surrounded by a castle, and that bell tower was its main tower.

Inside, the Gothic structure is surprising, with square-based pillars and rib vaults. Beside the presbytery are the wall paintings, with biblical figures and scenes. And as you approach the central apse you reach the main piece: the Christ of Salardú, a 12th-century carving attributed to the Erill la Vall workshop, the same one to which the Christ of Mijaran in Vielha is attributed. It is a suffering Christ, with legs of triangular section, with the typical features of Romanesque imagery.

Hours

The official page gives no fixed hours. In summer, Visit Val d'Aran has included it among the valley churches open every day from 10:00 to 19:00, except when there is a guided visit; outside that season, ask at the Vielha tourist office, on 973 64 01 10, before going.

Getting there and what to combine

Salardú is about 5 km from Baqueira on the C-28. It is a good stop on coming down from the slopes or a plan for the day you do not ski. From the village square you climb to the church by a steep street.

If you like Romanesque, Visit Val d'Aran suggests a circular walk that leaves Salardú towards Unha, where you find the 16th-century manor house Ço de Brastet, the church of Santa Eulària, with wall paintings that run from Romanesque to Renaissance, and the Musèu dera Nhèu, the snow museum. Continue along the GR 211 to Gessa, with the tower house Ço de Ròsa, and return to Salardú.

To see the other great Christ of the Erill workshop, go down to Vielha: the church of Sant Miquèu is in the centre. And if there is someone in the group who does not ski, see the Baqueira walking lift pass.