Plaza Mayor and streets of grand houses

The Plaza Mayor of Almagro is long and irregular, with stone-columned arcades and, above them, two storeys of glazed galleries painted green. On one side is the entrance to the Corral de Comedias. From the square, streets of grand houses with coats of arms over their doorways lead off. The walk takes in the Fúcares Palace, or the palace house of Juan Jédler, on Calle Arzobispo Cañizares; the Lace Museum, on Callejón del Villar, which recalls the craft of the bobbin lace makers; and the Mirador del Silo, on Calle Tirso de Molina, a former grain silo turned into a viewpoint over the rooftops.

The square

It lies in the centre of the old town and is rectangular but irregular in plan, formed by two long sides with arcades of Tuscan stone columns. Above them run two continuous galleries that were originally open: they were stands for public events, festivals, religious ceremonies and bullfights, which were held here until Charles III banned them in 1785. Today they are closed in with glass in the central European style, something the town council considers unique in Spain. They were reached by two staircases, on Calle del Toril and Callejón del Villar, and through small doors from the arcades.

At number 18 is the Corral de Comedias, from 1628, the only one preserved intact and in use since the 17th century; in the evening you can see a classical theatre performance. Next to the square, on Calle Gran Maestre, is the National Museum of the Performing Arts, free of charge.

The streets of the grand houses

The Fúcares Palace was for a long time believed to be the palace of the Fúcares, the Fuggers, "the richest family in Europe", and later their warehouse; today it is known to have been the house of Juan Jédler, one of their agents in Almagro. It dates from the 16th century, with a Toledo-style façade of brick, rammed earth and rubble masonry, an entrance hall with plasterwork, coffered ceilings and a square courtyard of Tuscan columns that the town council counts among the best of the Renaissance in the city. Since 1984 it has housed the Universidad Popular.

The Lace and Blonde Museum, on Callejón del Villar, opened in 2004. It shows bobbin lace and silk blonde, from which the Almagro mantilla was made, as well as pricked patterns, pillows and bobbins. The Mirador del Silo, on Calle Tirso de Molina, was a grain silo that operated from 1968; in 2017 Antonio Laguna painted its four façades and since 2020 you can climb to its terrace to see the rooftops, San Bartolomé and the Asunción convent. It opens only Friday to Sunday afternoons.

Hours and tickets

The square is open to all and can be strolled at any time, with a dog too. The municipal sites close on Mondays and open Tuesday to Sunday; from October to March, 10:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 19:00, and on Sundays mornings only. Each site costs €3.50, €3 reduced; the three-site pass, €8, and the all-sites pass, €11. Maps and passes can be requested at the Tourist Office, at Calle San Agustín 21 (926 86 07 17).

For a meal nearby, La Parrilla de San Agustín is on Calle San Agustín, and to sleep next to the square, the Hotel Retiro del Maestre.