Alcalá del Júcar, a village hanging from the gorge and riddled with caves.

Alcalá del Júcar is in La Manchuela, in the north-east of the province of Albacete, where the Júcar cuts into a gorge before passing into Valencian lands. The village rises on a crag in a bend of the river: whitewashed houses climb the slope, many dug into the rock, up to a castle of Almohad origin at the top. It has been a historic-artistic site since 1982 and is part of the Most Beautiful Villages of Spain network.

What makes it different are its caves: galleries that run through the crag from side to side and look out onto the gorge on the other face. Some, such as those of El Diablo or Masagó, can be visited and have a bar inside.

How do you get there from Albacete and from Valencia?

By car. From Albacete it is about 65 km along the N-322, less than an hour. From Valencia, about 128 km: along the A-3 to Requena and the N-322, around an hour and three quarters. From Alicante, about 155 km along the A-31 towards Almansa and Albacete, about two hours. From Madrid it is almost 290 km, about three hours along the A-3. From Cuenca, a little over two hours.

The last stretch goes down to the valley along a road with bends. There is no practical public transport for a day visit.

Where to park?

The old town has narrow streets, steps and slopes: do not drive in. Park below, beside the river and the bridge, and walk up. If you sleep at the Finca Los Olivos or in the rural houses by the river, leave the car there and walk to the old town, which is a few minutes away. On spring weekends and public holidays the valley floor fills up early.

What to see and do?

Start at the bottom: the so-called Roman bridge, actually medieval and restored, which carried the Camino Real from Castile to the Levante. On the other side are the church of San Andrés and a bullring of irregular plan. Then, climb through the old town towards the castle, whose tower can be visited, with views of the whole meander.

On the slope, go into the Cuevas del Diablo, which for €4 with a drink also include those of Rey Garadén, and into those of Masagó, hand-cut, with a medieval cellar and small museums. Both stay cool in summer.

On the river, Multiaventura Los Olivos hires double canoes with an instructor along a calm stretch of the Júcar, suitable from age 2 and with a dog, and takes groups rafting on the Cabriel gorges. For walking, the town council suggests three trails that start from the village: the Batán, along the top of the valley, the Morrón, to the hamlet of Tolosa, and the Corciolico, towards Casas del Cerro.

How much time?

The village is seen in a morning: bridge, castle and one or two caves. With a full day you add the canoes or a trail, and if you stay the night you will see the village lit up and the valley without the day's groups.

When to go?

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. In summer, the river and the caves are a relief, but the slopes in the sun are tiring: leave the castle for first thing or for the afternoon. In winter the village is quiet and some businesses reduce their hours.

Where to eat and sleep?

For a special meal, the Eliá restaurant, open to the public in the hotel of the same name. For La Mancha cooking with a set menu and views of the river, the Avenjúcar restaurant, in Tolosa. For sleeping, the four-star Hotel & Spa Eliá, with a spa; the Olmeda rural houses, duplexes beside the river that admit pets; or the Avenjúcar rural hotel in Tolosa, with family rooms.