León, stained glass, kings and tapas in the Húmedo.

León is a city for walking. Everything important fits into a half-hour stroll: the Gothic stained-glass cathedral in Plaza de Regla, the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro with the Panteón de los Reyes beside the Roman wall, Gaudí's Casa Botines in Plaza de San Marcelo and, by the River Bernesga, San Marcos and its Plateresque façade. In between, the Barrio Húmedo, the streets of bars where your caña or glass of wine usually arrives with a tapa. The French Way of the Camino de Santiago enters over the Castro bridge and leaves by San Marcos, so you will see pilgrims all year round.

How do you get to León?

From Oviedo, take the AP-66 and the Huerna pass, about 125 km and a good hour and a half. From Palencia or Zamora, a little over an hour and a half. From Burgos, about 180 km along the A-231, in two hours; from Valladolid, about 140 km. On arrival, leave the car at your hotel or in a car park in the ensanche (the newer part of town) and go in on foot: much of the old town is pedestrianised.

What to see in a day

Start with the cathedral, at 9:30, when there are fewer people and the morning light comes in through the eastern stained glass. Admission, with the cloister, costs €8; under-12s don't pay and on Tuesday afternoons it is free. Allow an hour and a half. On Sundays it closes from 11:30 to 15:00 for Mass, so that day go very early or in the afternoon.

Continue along the wall to San Isidoro. The museum includes the Panteón de los Reyes, with its 12th-century painted vaults, the treasury and the cloister: €6 on your own or €8 with a guide. In autumn it opens Tuesday to Saturday morning and afternoon, and on Sunday only in the morning. Then the Barrio Húmedo and Plaza de San Martín for an aperitif, and lunch in the centre.

In the afternoon, the Casa Botines (€10, closed on Tuesday) and a stroll along Calle Ancha and Avenida del Padre Isla to San Marcos, whose church and museum are free. If you have time left and like contemporary art, the MUSAC is a twenty-minute walk away and costs €3.

How much time do you need?

One day for the cathedral, San Isidoro, Botines and the Húmedo. With one night, add San Marcos at a leisurely pace, the centre of Roman León and the MUSAC, and the next day head for Astorga, Las Médulas or the mountains: Las Médulas are an hour and three quarters away and Leitariegos, the ski resort in the Laciana valley, less than two hours.

When to go

May, June, September and October are the best months: mild days and cool nights. León stands at more than 800 metres above sea level and winter is cold, with frosts, but everything is open. Check the calendar before choosing a day: on Mondays San Isidoro, San Marcos and most museums are closed, and on Tuesdays the Casa Botines is closed. On Sunday mornings, between Masses, the cathedral closes at midday.

Eating in León

Cecina (cured beef), black pudding, botillo from El Bierzo, cocido maragato and pulses from La Bañeza. Casa Mando, next to the Barrio Húmedo, serves León cooking based on good produce and opens at lunchtime every day, Sunday included. The restaurant of the Hotel Real Colegiata, inside San Isidoro, has a set menu of the day at €28 on weekdays. For tapas, the Húmedo and the Romántico quarter, around Plaza de Torres de Omaña.

Where to stay in León

The Hotel Real Colegiata de San Isidoro is inside the complex, next to the Panteón, and has free parking for guests. The Barceló León Conde Luna, on Avenida de la Independencia, is a big four-star hotel, with a roof terrace and paid underground parking.