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The Caballo lighthouse at the foot of the Buciero cliffsVanbasten 23 · CC BY-SA 3.0

What to do · Santoña and Laredo

Monte Buciero lighthouses trail

Trail · 12 km circular · Napoleonic forts, holm oak woodland and the Caballo and Pescador lighthouses · Medium-hard · Free

InformationFree
Price
Free
Duration
5 h
Distance
12 km
Season
All year; avoid rainy days
Who it's for
Walkers; the 763 steps of the Caballo lighthouse demand fit legs

Santoña's big trail: 12 km in a circuit along the coast of Monte Buciero, from the Fort of San Martín, at the end of the promenade, between cliffs and one of the best-preserved coastal holm oak woods on the Cantabrian coast. It passes the Mazo fort, the Pescador lighthouse and the descent to the Caballo lighthouse, hundreds of steps down to the sea. Medium-to-hard difficulty. The town council has temporarily closed access to the Caballo lighthouse because of landslides of earth and rock: check santona.es to see whether it is still closed before you go.

The route

It is the council's Trail 1, "Lighthouses and Cliffs". It starts next to the Fort of San Martín: some steps lead up to a road and, turning left, you pass the Alta and Baja de Galbanes batteries. The asphalt becomes a stony track that gains height above the cliffs among half-abandoned quarries, and after a kilometre you reach the fort of San Carlos. Next comes the Peña del Fraile, with cavities that hold prehistoric remains; local legend says a salvo from the mountain's cannons knocked off the "friar's" head.

After the Casa de la Leña, a crossroads leads right towards the Caballo lighthouse and the San Felipe battery. Then come about two kilometres of woodland of holm oaks, strawberry trees and bay laurels, and a descent in sharp bends to the Pescador lighthouse, which was first lit in 1864 with an olive-oil lamp and rebuilt after a cyclone in 1915. The return passes Berria beach, the Dueso prison, a former Napoleonic fort, the Águila and La Cueva batteries, the Mazo fort and the Casablanca viewpoint, with views over Santoña and the marshes, before closing the circuit at the Fort of San Martín.

The Caballo lighthouse

The descent to the lighthouse is the stretch that makes the trail hard. In its information sheet the council speaks of some 700 steps, 800 if you go down to the sea, and elsewhere of 763; the access is rough and the climb back is long. The lighthouse came into service in 1863 and is now abandoned. At the moment that stretch is closed because of rockfalls, with no reopening date published, and the santona.es home page marks it as closed access. If you want to see it, the boat trip to the Caballo lighthouse shows it from the sea, and the fort has a virtual-reality descent on its opening days.

Before you set off

The council does not publish the duration or the ascent; allow a good part of the day if you do the full loop with stops. Bring mountain footwear, water and something to eat: there is nowhere to buy anything on the mountain. The council's sheet offers the GPX track and the route on Wikiloc and Google Maps, useful because there are several junctions. With small children it is better to do only the first stretch as far as the fort of San Carlos and come back.

For maps and the state of the trail, call in at the Santoña Tourist Office, on Calle Santander. When you finish, the promenade takes you back to the centre.

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

Santoña anchovy fillets on a wooden board© Conservas Emilia

Conservas Emilia Shop

Market · Santoña · €€€€

What to order: a jar or tin of anchovy fillets in olive oil to take home; also northern tuna from the summer season

Asador El Tiburón

Restaurant · Laredo · €€€€

What to order: ask what they have on the grill that day; it is next to the ferry, so it fits in with the return from Santoña

A table in the glassed-in dining room, with views of the harbour© El Restaurante de Pilar

El Restaurante de Pilar

Restaurant · Santoña · €€€€

What to order: Pilar's croquettes and Santoña anchovies to start; then longline fish by weight or the tuna casserole

To stay nearby

Berria beach seen from above, with the hotel next to the sand© Hotel Juan de la CosaHotel

Hotel Juan de la Cosa

Berria front line · Heated pool · Garage · Rooms with sea terrace · Apartments

Dogs welcome

Why we like it: Hotel on the front line of Berria beach, 2 km from the centre of Santoña, with a heated pool, garage, apartments and a restaurant with its own shellfish tank.

The hotel garden with parasols, in front of the building© Hotel El AnclaSmall hotel

Hotel El Ancla

100 m from La Salvé · Garden · Breakfast at any hour · 24-hour reception · Stores Camino bikes

Dogs welcome

Why we like it: Classic hotel with a garden 100 m from La Salvé and 500 m from the centre of Laredo, with breakfast at any hour and pets on request.

Itineraries

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