Bosque de los Enigmas from Cruz del Carmen

This is the laurel forest walk that the Cabildo suggests to anyone without a permit for El Pijaral: a self-guided circuit of about 5 km that can be started at the Zapata viewpoint or at Cruz del Carmen and that poses, in seven stops, questions about how the forest works. The Cabildo puts it at 1 h 40 at an easy pace and low difficulty; the leaflet from La Laguna Town Council warns of a short, steeper stretch with a risk of slipping.

Seven stops with a question

The idea is to walk, stopping where the leaflet tells you to. At the Zapata viewpoint it asks why on so many days you cannot see anything from there, and the answer is the sea of clouds that keeps the forest alive. Further on, an old laurel with fungi on the fallen trunks; a hollow cut into the rock where water was collected for the watering trough of the pack animals, next to an old forest rangers' house; the ridge, where the wind rules and the trees change to heathers and small-leaved yews; Cruz del Carmen, and the descent along the hillside to a small stream, from where an old zigzag path brings you back to the start. The answers are on the back of the leaflet, and the staff at the Cruz del Carmen Visitor Centre will sort out whatever is left.

Laurel, faya and viñátigo

The leaflet names the species you will see most: heather, faya, wild orange, laurel, hija and viñátigo, with trunks covered in moss and lichens hanging from the branches. If the trade wind blows, you will hear the branches creak and drops will fall on you even when it is not raining. It is a damp forest, in shade almost all year, a good route for a hot day on the coast. Part of the route coincides with the PR-TF 11 and PR-TF 12 trails, which descend to Punta del Hidalgo and Bajamar: follow the Bosque de los Enigmas signs so as not to stray.

Zapata or Cruz del Carmen

The official leaflet starts at the Zapata viewpoint, on the TF-143 road, with parking and a bus stop; the Cabildo describes it from Cruz del Carmen, on the TF-12. Cruz del Carmen has the visitor centre, toilets, a café and a restaurant, but its car park fills up early at weekends, and then Zapata is the alternative. From Santa Cruz it is about 25 minutes by car, or on TITSA buses 076 and 275 from the interchange. No booking or authorisation is needed.

If you want a guide

If you would rather have someone explain the forest, Senda Ecoway runs a walk with an official guide through this same laurel forest at Cruz del Carmen, followed by a meal at a guachinche. With small children, the Sendero de los Sentidos leaves from the same visitor centre and lasts less than half an hour.