
Albergue Montes de Anaga, at El Bailadero
Why we like it: The only hostel inside the Anaga Rural Park: nine rooms for 2 to 6 people at El Bailadero, a kitchen for guests and free parking.
Itinerary · 1 night
On Saturday, guided laurel forest at Cruz del Carmen and a night at El Bailadero; on Sunday, El Pijaral with a permit at dawn and fish at Roque de las Bodegas.
Leaves from Santa Cruz de Tenerife · 30 min
Part of Anaga Massif
The plan
Designed to go up on Saturday morning and sleep at El Bailadero. Before leaving, request the El Pijaral permit on Tenerife ON on the Monday of the previous week, book the Senda Ecoway guided walk three days ahead and a bed at the Albergue Montes de Anaga, and buy groceries for dinner.
Saturday
A walk of about two hours with an official Senda Ecoway guide and lunch at a guachinche. From €65, minimum four people and booking three days ahead. Without a group, do the Sendero de los Sentidos and the Bosque de los Enigmas on your own.
Leave your things at the hostel and go down the Azanos path towards Taganana; if you do not want to climb 600 m back up, go as far as the Roque de Amogoje and return.
With groceries bought in Santa Cruz or San Andrés: there are no shops up there.
Sunday
Ten minutes by car to La Ensillada. A 6.4 km loop and 2 h 30 to the Cabezo del Tejo viewpoint, with a permit.
Go down to the village and walk the interpreted trail, a kilometre among houses and the church.
At the Roque de las Bodegas, sold by weight and no booking. Open Wednesday to Sunday until 18:00.
From the Roque de las Bodegas to Almáciga and the Benijo viewpoint. Back to Santa Cruz via San Andrés in about 35 minutes.
Anaga is half an hour from Santa Cruz, which is why almost everyone sees it in a day and goes back. Staying a night inside, at El Bailadero, changes the plan: on Sunday you are ten minutes from La Ensillada when El Pijaral opens, before the mist arrives and before anyone else, and you go down to the coast for lunch with the morning already done.
At the Albergue Montes de Anaga, the only accommodation inside the park: nine rooms for two to six people at El Bailadero, from €20 per person per night, with heating and free parking. It does not serve meals, but you can use the kitchen for €2 and rent the terrace barbecue. If you prefer a hotel, in La Laguna, half an hour from Cruz del Carmen, there are the Hotel Aguere, in an 18th-century house in the old town, and La Laguna Gran Hotel, with a rooftop pool; from there El Pijaral is about 45 minutes away.
With a free authorisation from the Cabildo, on Tenerife ON. Places are published on Mondays at 7:00 for the following week, up to 14 days ahead, and only for individuals: you cannot go with a company or a guide. Download the permit, because there is not always a signal at the top. If there is no place, on Sunday morning do the Bosque de los Enigmas from Cruz del Carmen.
By car is the most convenient: El Bailadero is about 35 minutes from Santa Cruz via San Andrés, and from there to La Ensillada, Taganana or Chamorga it is ten to twenty minutes. Without a car, swap El Pijaral for the route from Chamorga to the Anaga Lighthouse: bus 947 stops at El Bailadero and goes up to Chamorga at 10:15 at weekends; the rest of the plan works with the 946.
Map
Plan the trip
Each choice narrows the next: the season shapes how best to travel, and how you travel decides where you stay and where you eat.
When to go
How you travel
The plan stays the same. What changes is where you sleep, how you get there and how much you spend.
Anaga is crossed by a single ridge road, the TF-12, which climbs from La Laguna via Las Mercedes and Cruz del Carmen and from Santa Cruz via San Andrés, and the two meet at El Bailadero. From there the roads drop to Taganana and the coast, and the one to Chamorga continues. The roads are narrow and winding: allow more time than the maps say. The budget includes a bed at the hostel or a hotel in La Laguna, a meal and petrol.
Anaga is one of the few natural areas of Tenerife that can be done well by bus. From the Santa Cruz interchange, the 946 goes to Taganana and Almáciga and the 947 to Chamorga; from La Laguna, which you reach by tram, the 076, the 275 and the 077 climb to Cruz del Carmen. There are few departures, so the plan is made with the timetable in front of you. The budget covers one bed, one meal and the tickets.
Where to stay
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Why we like it: The only hostel inside the Anaga Rural Park: nine rooms for 2 to 6 people at El Bailadero, a kitchen for guests and free parking.

Why we like it: A 22-room hotel in an 18th-century house in central La Laguna, with a glazed Canarian patio; a hotel since 1885. 25 minutes from Cruz del Carmen.

Why we like it: Hotel in an 18th-century building next to the centre of La Laguna, with a rooftop pool and gym, 24-hour reception and two restaurants.
Services for this trip
Areas, for any way of travelling
| Area | Who it's for | Average night |
|---|---|---|
| Cruz del Carmen and Las Mercedes | Easy laurel forest, visitor centre, guaguas from La Laguna | |
| El Bailadero and the summit | El Pijaral, the hostel, the path to Taganana | |
| Taganana and the coast | The village, Roque de las Bodegas, Almáciga and Benijo | |
| Chamorga | The tip of the massif, the lighthouse and Roque Bermejo |
Where to eat

What to order: the fish of the day, fried or sancochado (boiled), which is charged by weight, or the fish churros with alioli; for dessert, quesillo.
What to order: the caramelised octopus or the Taganana baby squid; if you fancy something different, the cod cannelloni in prawn sauce.

What to order: tartare, carpaccio or the fish of the day; ask what is in season.
Tips
If Sunday dawns with a rain or wind alert on Tenerife ON, the El Pijaral permit may be void: swap it for the Bosque de los Enigmas.
Monday and Tuesday, because of Casa África, and days with a bad-weather or fire-risk alert.
Questions
About 35 minutes by car to El Bailadero via San Andrés, or a little over half an hour on bus 946 or 947.
The El Pijaral permit, the hostel bed and, if there are four or more of you, the guided walk.
Between €110 and €170 per person with the night at the hostel, the guided walk with lunch, dinner and Sunday lunch.
Yes, swapping El Pijaral for the Sendero de los Sentidos and the descent to Taganana for the coast walk.
Geocaliahttps://www.geocalia.com/en/spain/canary-islands/anaga-massif/itineraries/one-night-laurel-forest-and-lighthouse-anaga