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The polychrome portico of Santa María de los Reyes, in LaguardiaJnCrlsMG · CC BY-SA 4.0

What to do · Laguardia and the Rioja Alavesa

Church of Santa María de los Reyes and its polychrome portico

A guided visit to the church and its painted Gothic portico, under restoration with a front scaffold · 40 min · €5

InformationFrom €5 per person
From
€5 per person
Duration
40 min
Season
All year, by reservation
Who it's for
Everyone

Santa María de los Reyes is the church at the far northern end of Laguardia's old town, the upper part of the town. What people come to see is its Gothic doorway, from the end of the 14th century, with 17th-century polychrome very well preserved. It is shown only on a guided visit with the tourist office, and now with one condition: the portico is under restoration, with a scaffold in front of it.

Twelve apostles on the doorway

The doorway is carved in stone. On the jambs are the twelve apostles and on the central pillar, the image of Santa María de los Reyes. The tympanum is filled with scenes from the life of the Virgin and the archivolts with plant motifs and figures. It is preserved so well because in the 16th century the portico was closed in and was sheltered from the weather. That is why it is seen from inside an enclosure, and why it cannot be seen freely from the street.

Four centuries of building

The church was begun in the 12th century and not finished until the early 16th, so it mixes styles in every corner. Inside, the high altarpiece is from the 17th century and is considered one of Juan de Bascardo's best works. Attached to the church, the Torre Abacial, from the town's old defences, is visited separately.

Scaffold in front of the portico

The portico has damp problems and is undergoing restoration and maintenance work. According to the tourist office, it has a front scaffold that will stay in place throughout the work, about two years. The visit continues, but you will not see the doorway unobstructed: bear that in mind before planning a trip just for it.

Tickets, times and capacity

  • Duration: about 40 minutes.
  • Price: €5. Reduced, €3.50, for over-65s, people with disabilities, children aged 6 to 17 and students.
  • Capacity: 40 places per session; a maximum of four can be bought per connection.
  • Times: they change with the season and are shown in the online sales of Turismo de Laguardia.
  • Booking: on that website, at the office on Calle Mayor 52, on 945 600 845 or at [email protected].

According to Álava Turismo, the guided visits to Santa María are inclusive and the church has a wooden ramp to get over the entrance step.

Before and after

The office sells the Torre Abacial and the municipal cellar on the same website, so the three visits can be linked in one morning. From the church, the Collado promenade and the Portal de Páganos viewpoint, on the walk round the walled old town, are a few steps away.

Tips

  • Buy your ticket online With 40 places per session and a limit of four per purchase, on long weekends and in the harvest the sessions sell out.
  • Tower first The Torre Abacial has a session at 10:45 Monday to Saturday and at 11:45 on Sundays and public holidays: then the church, which is next door.

Frequently asked questions

Can you see the portico without a guided visit?

No: it is inside an enclosure and is shown on the tourist office's guided visit.

Where do you buy the tickets?

On the Turismo de Laguardia website, in the bookings section, or at the office on Calle Mayor 52.

How much does the visit to Santa María de los Reyes cost?

€5; €3.50 reduced.

Can you see the portico during the restoration?

There is a front scaffold throughout the work, about two years according to the office; the visit continues.

Is it accessible?

Álava Turismo says the visits are inclusive and that there is a wooden ramp at the entrance.

As a familyWith teenagers

Opening hours and prices can change: check them before you go.

Round off the plan

Where to eat, where to stay and what else to do

To eat nearby

A table in the Amelibia dining room© Restaurante Amelibia

Amelibia restaurant

Restaurant · Laguardia · €€€€

What to order: the hake kokotxas in pil-pil, the pig's trotters with foie gras or the confit suckling pig

The dining room of the Villa-Lucía grill restaurant© Villa-Lucía

Villa-Lucía grill restaurant

Restaurant · Laguardia · €€€€

What to order: something from the vine-cutting and vine-stock grill, and at the wine bar, pintxos with a Rioja Alavesa wine

The restaurant's façade in Páganos© Restaurante Héctor Oribe

Héctor Oribe restaurant

Restaurant · Páganos (Laguardia) · €€€€

What to order: the eight-course tasting menu; from Wednesday to Friday, the short five-course one

To stay nearby

The Hotel Mayor de Migueloa in Laguardia's old town© Mayor de MigueloaSmall hotel

Posada Mayor de Migueloa

Palace in the old town · Own restaurant and winery · Bike hire · No pets

Why we like it: A hotel in a medieval palace on Calle Mayor, inside the wall, with a chuletón restaurant and its own winery beneath the house.

Autumn view from Erletxe© Casa Rural ErletxeCountry house

Casa Rural Erletxe

Inside the old town · Garden · Breakfasts · Parking for motorbikes and bikes

Why we like it: A country guesthouse on Rúa Mayor de Peralta, inside the old town, with a garden, breakfasts, a reading lounge and a lift; the quiet, affordable option.

The hotel building with its gardens© Hotel Silken Villa de LaguardiaSpa hotel

Hotel Silken Villa de Laguardia

84 rooms · Wine and oil spa · Outdoor pool · Garage

Why we like it: A four-star hotel with a 1,000 m² spa and an outdoor pool, among vineyards at the foot of the old town and next to the bus stop.