Santa María Ruins and the Cerezuelo River Vault

The ruins of Santa María and the vault of the Cerezuelo river are the place where the history of Cazorla is best understood. Santa María was the town's great Renaissance church, from the 16th century, attributed to Andrés de Vandelvira, the architect of Úbeda. To build it at the bottom of the valley, the Cerezuelo river had to be channelled under a barrel vault that passes beneath the high altar and the square. On 2 June 1694 a storm made the river overflow, the vault acted as a dam and the water wrecked the church.

A Church Without a Roof

What remains, restored in 2009 and 2010, are the roofless walls, the north doorway and the coffered vault of the apse, open to the sky in the middle of the Plaza de Santa María. The municipal tourist office is now in the ruins themselves, and it is also where entry to the vault is arranged.

Beneath the Square, Beside the River

The visit to the vault goes down into the tunnel through which the Cerezuelo still runs, under the square. It is done in time slots every day; according to the municipal notice, at 10:30, 11:30 and 12:30 in the morning and at 16:30, 17:00 and 18:15 in the afternoon. Ask about the price and the next free slot at the tourist office, because times may change with the season.

With a Guide: Cazorleando

If you would rather have it explained, TurisNat organises Cazorleando, a guided walk of about two hours through the historic centre that includes entry to the vault. It leaves at weekends, on public holidays and on long weekends at 10:30 from the Plaza de la Constitución, next to the tourist train stop, and passes the Palacio de las Cadenas, the church of San José, the convent of the Mercedarians, the Zabaleta balcony, the Plaza and fountain of Santa María, the ruins, the vault and a stretch of the river. It costs €20 per person, €12 for ages 6 to 12 and is free for under-fives; at least two paying adults are needed and the maximum group is twenty. It includes guide, map and insurance.

Around the Square

The Plaza de Santa María is in the lower district, a few minutes' walk from the Plaza de la Corredera. From there the path climbs to the Castillo de la Yedra, which you can see above the river, and the tourist train leaves from the Plaza de la Constitución. For a meal in the district, the Mesón Leandro is on Calle Hoz, in the old town. Park in one of the Cazorla car parks and walk down.