The ruins of Bobastro and its rock-hewn church

On a sandstone plateau above El Chorro, in the Mesas de Villaverde, lie the remains of Bobastro, the fortified city of Omar ben Hafsún, who rebelled against Córdoba in the late 9th century. What you visit is the rock church: three naves carved directly into the rock, without built walls, at the edge of the hill. From above you see the reservoir and the sierra.

What you will see

The archaeological site, from the 9th and 10th centuries, brings together the remains of the Islamic city, a Muslim necropolis and, at the centre, the Mozarabic church hewn from the rock and joined to a hermit complex. It was built around the year 917 and is attributed to Ben Hafsún, who converted to Christianity. It is the only church of Mozarabic origin known in what were the lands of al-Andalus, and so it forms part of the landmarks proposed alongside the Caminito del Rey as heritage of the area.

Its plan is basilical, with three naves and a horseshoe-shaped apse. Being hollowed out of the stone, with no vaults or added walls, it is walked like a sculpture in negative: the arches, pillars and apse are the rock itself. A few metres away are the remains of the fortress.

Hours and admission

According to the Junta de Andalucía's Cultural Agenda, the church is visited Tuesday to Sunday and on Monday public holidays, from 10:00 to 15:00, with guided visits every hour. Admission costs €3, and €2 for retirees and children aged 5 to 12. Bookings are taken on 952 458 046, the heritage telephone of Ardales Town Hall. The guides do not entirely agree on the hours, so call before going up. Allow an hour with the walk.

Getting there

By car, take the MA-444 from Ardales towards El Chorro; about 6 km along a tarmac road branches off to the right and climbs to Bobastro. From the car park there is a short walk along a dirt track with some gradient. There are no facilities: bring water and footwear with a sole.

It combines well with the Cueva de Ardales, which is also visited with a guide and in the morning, or with lunch at La Garganta, down in the El Chorro district. With children it is a short and curious visit: going into a church made inside the rock usually catches their attention.