Moselle wines, Riesling on the steepest slate slopes in Europe.

The Moselle is a river you can drink. It rises in the Vosges, crosses Lorraine, forms the border between Luxembourg and Germany and, once in German territory, twists in tight meanders to the Rhine at Koblenz. Along almost all of that course it is accompanied by vines: gentle in France, orderly in Luxembourg and hanging from impossible slate slopes in Germany, where one of the world's best-known Rieslings is made.

What are Moselle wines?

They are three different vineyards along the same river. In France, the small AOC Moselle appellation, around Metz, produces little wine, mostly Auxerrois and Müller-Thurgau whites that hardly leave Lorraine. In Luxembourg, the vineyard covers about 1,290 hectares along the 42 km of bank that the river shares with Germany, from Schengen, at the tripoint, to Wasserbillig; there they make Rivaner, Auxerrois, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Elbling and, above all, Crémant de Luxembourg, the country's sparkling wine.

In Germany, the Moselle wine region, which includes the tributaries Saar and Ruwer, has about 8,700 hectares, and Riesling covers around 60%. It is the largest steep-slope vineyard area in the world: close to 40% of the vines grow on slopes of more than 30%, on slate soils that hold the day's heat. The Calmont, between Bremm and Ediger, reaches about 65 degrees and is one of the steepest vineyards in the world. The most famous sites, such as the Bernkasteler Doctor, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr or the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, are on the middle Moselle.

How do you get there and travel it?

The nearest airports are Luxembourg, Frankfurt-Hahn and Frankfurt. Luxembourg is the most convenient gateway for the Luxembourg section and for Trier, the Roman city that opens the German stretch. Koblenz, at the other end, is well connected by train with Cologne and Frankfurt.

Within the valley there are three ways to get around, and they combine well. The train from Koblenz to Trier follows the river for much of the way and stops at Cochem and Bullay, from where a branch line climbs to Traben-Trarbach. Scheduled boats sail in season between the villages. And the Mosel-Radweg, the valley's cycle path, covers 248 almost flat km from Perl to Koblenz in ten stages, with bike hire in the larger villages.

On foot, the Moselsteig runs from Perl to Koblenz in 365 km and 24 stages, up above, among vines and forest, and dropping down to the villages. It also has 22 short circular routes, of 4 to 20 km, perfect for a day of wine and walking.

What to see in the Moselle valley?

The German stretch between Trier and Koblenz is the heart of the area, and we cover it in detail in the Moselle valley. There you will find Bernkastel-Kues, with its square of half-timbered houses and the Doctor above it; Traben-Trarbach, with its Art Nouveau buildings from the golden age of the wine trade; Zell; Cochem, with its castle above the town; and, in a side valley, Eltz Castle, one of the most photographed in Germany. Between Bremm and Ediger, the Calmont path lets you walk inside the steepest vineyards.

Upstream, Trier has the Porta Nigra and other Roman buildings, and on the Saar is the Scharzhofberg, one of the region's best-known sites. In Luxembourg, the wine route runs through villages such as Remich, Grevenmacher and Schengen, the village that gave its name to the European agreement. In France, the vineyard is concentrated in a few villages around Metz.

When to go?

From May to October, when the boats run and the castles open. September and October are the grape harvest season, with golden vines and wine festivals: the middle Moselle one in Bernkastel-Kues and the Moselfest in Winningen are among the best known. July and August are pleasant but busier. From November to March the valley is quiet and grey, many boats stop sailing and Eltz Castle closes: in 2026 it closed on 2 November and reopens in March 2027.

How many days do you need?

For the German stretch, two to four nights: with two you see Cochem, Eltz and Bernkastel-Kues; with four you add Trier, a stage of the Moselsteig or a day by bike. If you want to follow the river through the three countries, from Metz to Koblenz, allow a week.

What is worth knowing before you go?

Many family wineries open their tasting room without an appointment in season, but outside it you should call ahead. In autumn temporary wine taverns also open, where the producer serves his wine with simple food. If you are going to drink, leave the car: between train, boat and bike you can get around without driving. The villages on the river are small and during the harvest festivals accommodation fills up; book in good time. And remember that Moselle Riesling ranges from very dry to very sweet: on the label, trocken means dry.